Medium-sized and smaller parrots need only be bathed by compulsion when they will not voluntarily take a bath; but for this purpose it is better to stick a leafy branch well wetted into their cage, for they mostly prefer to moisten their feathers on the wet leaves. As soon as they are quite accustomed to a bath, it should be put in the cage as often as possible, in summer on every warm day, and at other times when the room is thoroughly warm. Before putting in the bath the sand must be taken out of the drawer and the latter covered with paper. After the bath it should be well dried and again strewed with fresh sand. The bath alone, however, does not nearly include all the necessary care of the plumage. In the first place, the opportunity, at least, must be given to every parrot to paddle in the sand and bathe its feathers in it; most of them do it very eagerly. The sand must possess the qualities mentioned on p. 33, and be perfectly dry and free from dust.

A very great difficulty in the care of the plumage is the removal of the stumps of feathers which have been broken or cut off. Experience shows that most parrots, especially the larger ones, when in captivity, pass through no regular moult, but that the salutary change of plumage often does not take place for years. As a rule, there is nothing for it but to pull out the stumps of the feathers by force. For this, of course, great caution and care are necessary. From one to three stumps should be drawn out with a little tweezers about every four or six weeks, first from one wing and then from the other, and afterwards in a similar way from the tail. This must be done adroitly and quickly, and care must be taken that the bird be not pressed or hurt in that or any other part of the body. If it should, nevertheless, bleed, the injured place should be moistened with a mixture consisting of one part of tincture of arnica to twenty parts of water. It may here be remarked that severe bleeding may be staunched by dipping the part in a mixture of liquor ferri sesquichlorati, one part to one hundred parts of water, and then covering with freshly-burnt lint of pure linen. One must carefully guard against catching hold firmly and tightly of any bird, parrots included, and must handle them as little as possible. Above all things, one must never pull out or break off a newly-sprouting feather with a still bleeding quill; for by this, on the one hand, the plumage is spoilt, and, on the other, there is danger of severe haemorrhage and weakening. It is, of course, advisable that the drawing of the stumps, as well as all other painful or unpleasant operations of the kind, should not be done by the owner, but by some stranger, especially when the bird is newly imported or only lately acquired. This person must be thoroughly trustworthy, not rough and unskilful, and, if possible, accustomed to such operations.

Before I enter upon the actual diseases of parrots I must again notice the subject of moulting, or change of feathers, before mentioned, which may, at least, under some conditions, be regarded as a disorder. Whereas our native birds are known to moult, more or less, regularly every year, this process fails with most parrots, as I before remarked, and it cannot yet be determined whether this is natural or the result of captivity. In any case, the parrot-keeper must take it into consideration. In speaking of the care of the plumage, I have given directions how to remove the old stumps of the feathers, which would otherwise remain fixed, probably, for years. This must be done not only for the sake of appearance and to obtain the renewal, as soon as possible, of the wing and tail feathers, but it is also absolutely necessary for the restoration and preservation of health. If, owing to the captive state, the parrot retains the injured plumage too long a time, many dangers may arise, and, by the plucking out of the feathers, it is sought to induce an artificial moult.

It must not be forgotten that the feather on the other wing, or on the other half of the tail corresponding to the one which has been pulled out, will fall out of its own accord, so that it would be an unnecessary trouble and torment to the bird if one were, for example, to pull out the first three pinions on each wing at the same time.

If, however, an old parrot maintains an irreproachable plumage for years together, without renewal, it is by no means necessary to produce an artificial moult; it is much better that its feathers should receive only partial treatment. This includes, above all things, careful physical attention in general, besides regular, abundant, and especially nourishing food, and the observation of all the other rules for management which I have already given. I may mention that the change of plumage goes on more slowly and with greater difficulty in the case of emaciated, weak, or old birds, and, therefore, at the commencement, particularly if it be artificially produced, the parrot must be well nourished; the best hemp seed, eggbread or biscuits, also a teaspoonful of fresh ant grubs every day, a teaspoonful of good wine, and perhaps, also, from one to three, or at the most five drops of malic acid or tincture of iron, in the drinking water, or with the wine upon biscuit, may be highly recommended; finally, a warm dry lodging and occasionally a bath.

In the plumage of the large parrots down often grows to a great extent, and, in consequence, apart from the necessity of movement in itself, every parrot must have a cage as large as possible, so that it may, by flapping its wings, subject its whole body thoroughly to the air. In case the cage, as only too often happens, is not sufficiently large, the parrot must be let out every day for a longer or shorter period, and then be accustomed to flap its wings well upon the perch in the upper part of the cage, as described on p. 22. If one has to deal with a wild bird which bites, and which cannot be let loose from the cage, or with an old stager which will no longer come out of its own accord, and which, not being accustomed to it, becomes very terrified when taken out by force, it is best to b]ow through the feathers with a little hand bellows or an indiarubber syringe. Even if it be very frightened on the first occasion, yet it will soon get used to it, and after a short time it will hold out its feathers voluntarily to the artificial wind. If the down be not removed at all it may interrupt the action of the skin by stopping up the pores, and thus cause boils, internal disease, or extreme irritation, which latter often leads to the unfortunate habit of self-plucking.

A well kept bird of any kind should never have neglected feet, for if they are dirty, covered with filth, sore, or festering, they not seldom cause disease and death. Cleanliness, dry sand, and frequent baths are the best means of keeping them in order. Above all things the parrot needs a perch completely in accordance with nature. (See p. 22.) Neglected feet should be cleaned with a soft brush, warm water, and soap (catching cold must be avoided), and then smeared with glycerine, diluted with water, one part to ten, or with the best olive oil. The claws rarely need to be cut, because with parrots which have sufficient opportunities of climbing they do not grow too long. When it is necessary it must be done with great caution.