Block your stone up with a block of wood, having its face down until it lies even, solid, and perfectly level; then pick and scrape off all the old plaster down to the face blocks, so that none remains but what is in the joints of the face blocks; then wash these blocks, and keep them soaked with water. Keep a number of pieces of burr blocks, at the same time, soaked with water. Take a pail half filled with clean water, and mixed with 2 tablespoonfuls of glue water, boiled and dissolved: mix in with your hand plaster of Paris until it be thick enough that it will not run; and, breaking all the lumps, pour this on the stone, rubbing it in with your hand; the stone being at the same time damped; and place small pieces of stone all over the joints of the face blocks; you then, with more plaster, mixed in the same way, but more stiff, with this and ptoses of burr stones, build walls round the eye and verge 4 or 5 inches high, leaving the surface uneven and the eye larger, as it will be brought to its proper size by the last operation. It is better to baud up the wall of the running stone round the verge for 9 inches without any spalls, so that the holes may be cut in to balance it. If you wish to make your stone heavier, you will take small pieces of iron, perfectly clean and free from grease, and lay them evenly all around the stone in the hollow place between the two walls just built; and with plaster mixed a little thicker than milk, pour in under and through all the crevices in the iron until the surface is nearly level with the two walls. If the stones do not require additional weight added, instead of iron use pieces of stone the same way, leaving the surface rough and uneven. Again, as before, baud walls round the verge of the stone, and round the eye of the Stone, until they are within 2 inches of the thickness you want your stones to be, the wall round the eye being2 inches higher than that round the verge, and filling the space between the walls with stones: and, pouring in plaster again, make it nearly level with the walls, but leaving the surface rough and jagged, to make the plaster adhere well to it. Let it stand until the hack is dry and perfectly when you raise the stone upon it- edge, and, with a trowel, plaster round the edge of the stone neatly, giving it a taper of ½ inch from the face to the back of the stone. When cased round in this way, lay the stone down on the cock-head; it being in the balance ryne, but the driver off, then raise the spindle, and balance the stone as already directed before putting on the remainder of the back. Then have a tin made the size of the eye, and to reach from the balance ryne to the thickness you want the stone to be at the eye. This tin should be exactly fined to its place, and made fast; then fit a hoop of wood or iron round the verge, having the upper edge of the thickness from the face you want the stone to he at the verge, and equal all round. This hoop should be greased; and all the cracks round it, and the tin in the eye, being stopped, you pom-thin plaster (with more glue water then in previous operations, to prevent it from setting so quickly, and to give time to finish off the back correctlv) until it be level with the hoop round the verge, and with a straight edge, one end resting on the hoop, and the oilier end resting on the tin at the eye; then, by moving it round, and working the plaster with a trowel, make the surface of the back even and smooth between these two points. The hoop is then taken off, and the back and edges planed smooth: then lower the spindle until your runner lies solid, and put your band or hoop on, it being first made nearly red hot, and taking care that it is of sufficient size not to require too much driving; if fitting too tightly, it may loosen the back In driving it to its proper place. It may be cooled gently by pouring water on it; and, when cool, it should fit tight.