Fig. 234 indicates a couple of tools in their relative positions during use, having guide studs with springs around and between the two faces of the tools. The recesses or gaps in such shapers may be, in some cases, specially made for merely finishing a great number of bolts, rods, or bars to one diameter or thickness ; and each pair of shapers may contain several gaps of different sizes. In other cases, the blocks are strong and thick enough to press a rude lump at welding heat into the form of a smoothly finished headed bolt, handle, boss, or lever.

The guides of such shapers may be studs, whose lower ends are screwed tight into the bottom block; or, instead of studs, bolts having heads at the under side of the shaper may be employed if it contains sufficient metal.

In order that the gaps or recesses in any pair of shapers may properly correspond and be opposite each other, it is necessary, during the making of the wood patterns, to carefully mark the face sides of the blocks to indicate the places of the intended gaps, and also recesses, when required. To obtain a correct delineation of the outlines of each recess, the two face sides of the blocks that are to be close to each other should be made rectangular, and of exactly the same length and width. When the edges of the two faces are thus squared and the surfaces smoothly planed, the place of one recess is determined, and the centre of it also ascertained in one of the block-faces. The distance of this centre or point from any one edge of the block-face is next ascertained by means of compasses, callipers, or scribing-gauge; and while the gauge is adjusted to the distance of the centre from the selected edge of the face, the gauge is held close to the corresponding edge of the other block-face which is not yet marked; while thus held, the marking-point of the gauge is drawn along the surface, and a short scratch made. The next step is to select one of the two edges or boundaries that are at right angles to the edge first used for marking; and the gauge point is then adjusted to the distance of the centre from the edge, and the gauge again drawn along the corresponding edge of the block that needs marking, and another short scratch is made across the first one, and the two will be at right angles to each other. The point of intersection of these two short lines is the centre of the desired gap or recess which is being marked, and from this centre the outline can be exscribed to indicate the form of the intended recess; consequently, if the outline is to be curved, compasses are used, and if rectangular, a square and straight-edge are needed.

A pair of outlines delineated by such means will coincide with each other when both faces are put together; and any other pairs of outlines may be marked, by similar means, upon any other part of the block-faces; after which, the carving, to form the recesses or gaps, is effected with proper tools, a chisel being first driven in at each line to prevent the wood being split in wrong directions.

After the patterns are made and the shapers cast, each recess will require a little trimming with files, and, in some cases, with chisels and scrapers, to make each pair of recesses fit a pattern rod, lever, or boss, which is being used for placing into the recess several times, until the pattern or gauge will slip easily to the bottom.

The coiled springs for raising the top tool are made of round steel wire or of small bar steel, and the coiling is effected by making a loop at one end of the wire, fixing the loop to an upright post, and coiling the steel around the post.

The post for the purpose, and also for making other coiled springs for larger work, may consist of a piece of round iron of any suitable diameter, which is fixed with a small pedestal of some kind into the ground. In the post, and at about four feet from the ground, is fixed a pin or hook for holding the loop or hook which is at the end of the wire to be coiled. After the wire is looped and ten or twelve inches of the steel heated, the loop is attached to the pin in the post, and the other end in the man's hand, or, in a tongs, is stretched out as tightly as possible, and at the same time coiled around the post by the man walking around until the heated portion of the steel is coiled; after which, the adjoining part is heated and the coiling continued until a sufficient length is coiled. When the coiling is completed, the spring is made red hot throughout its total length, and pulled out until a sufficient travel of the spring is obtained. The work is next cut to length, fitted, and hardened in oil, or, in some cases, in water, and afterwards tempered to a proper softness. When hardened in oil, no tempering is necessary for some sorts of steel; but whether or not oil or water should be selected for the hardening, must be decided by considering the quality of the particular piece of steel to be hardened.

Small springs can be made also while cold, and the coiling effected in a lathe. For this purpose, a proper spindle with apparatus is put into the lathe, and after attaching one end of the steel, the lathe is put to work and coiling performed.

Another class of springy shapers is represented by Fig. 235, for use on steam-hammer anvils. The spring of these shapers is bolted at one end to the top shaper, and the other end of the spring is loosely fitted in a recess in the bottom tool. Two or four guide studs may be used, the number depending on the dimensions and shape of the blocks. A pair of shapers having such a spring are more troublesome to use than the shapers shown by Fig. 234, although the long spring being bolted to the top tool allows the same spring to be attached to different tools, if necessary.