Generally speaking, wheels that require new felloes all round are worn a little at the shoulders of the spokes. Having split off the old felloes and knocked out the wedges from the tongues of the spokes, carefully examine the tongues. If they are at all worn through working in the old felloe, and the shoulders are worn down, cut all the shoulders down to make them alike. To do this, rest one end of a strip of pine about 1/2 in. wide on the face of the stock close to a spoke, pass a bradawl through at such a point as is required for the shoulder, and mark all the spokes by this. When cutting down, leave the mark on the front of the spoke, which fits better on the felloe when finished. See that all the tongues are of the same size by trying them with a fitter. The fitter is usually made by boring, with a bit the size of the tongue, two holes about 1 in. apart and cutting out the centres; this will give an elongated hole the diameter of the tongue. If a pattern has to be made for the felloes, measure the distance from the centre of the stock to the shoulders of the spokes, and fix a piece of panel-board od the bench. "With the length from the centre of the stock to the shoulder of the spoke as radins, describe on the panel-board an arc large enough to reach to three spokes of the wheel, and dress out, leaving the line full on in the centre of the pattern, so that when the pattern rests on the shoulders of the spokes it is slightly off the end ones.

Gauge the pattern round to the required depth, and having got the felloes, face them up true and straight on the face, get out the inner sweep or belly to the pattern, and square; then chop them round the back gin- wider than the width of the spoke and 1/8in. less in depth. The felloes are now ready for cutting in. To do this, turn the wheel face downwards on a tub, and cut the felloes to such a length that each .joint comes central between each pair of spokes; thus each felloe should reach to the centre of three spokes. The joint, when cut, should be slightly open at the top; this can be obtained by trying with a small bevel in the centre of the felloe, marking alongside of the blade, reversing the bevel, and altering until the desired joint is obtained, cutting each end off to this bevel in the depth and square across in the width. "When all the felloes are done, they should rest against the shoulders of the spokes and just meet at the joints; mark each side of the tongues on the face of the felloes, number them in rotation, and take them off to bore the tongue and dowel holes.

If the wheels are dished considerably, it is necessary to bore the holes for the tongues slightly forward to bring the sole of the felloes square with the ground line; but in a good ordinary wheel, bore the holes square through, so that the felloe will project beyond the front of the spoke 1/4 in: The dowel holes are bored rather towards the top in depth and central in width; care must be taken to bore them parallel with the face of the felloes and horizontal in length. The felloes are now rounded up. Drive them on, a little at a time (of course, first putting a dowel in each right-hand end when the face is to the right of the worker's arm), striking the far side of the tongue from the joint. "When they are nearly down on the shoulders, put a wedge in each tongue, noting that the wedges are a trifle narrower than the tongue hole. Go all round the rim, gradually working the felloes down into place by giving a wedge a blow, and then a felloe, and so on. When all the felloes are down and of a good fit (if not correct at first, the spokes should be kerfed in with a pad saw at the shoulders), face the wheel round on the front, gauge off full 1/8 in. tor the round of the face, then the width of the tyre, rounding up the front and back to these lines; clean off the joints in the belly of the felloes, and round over to meet the rounding on the face.

Clean off any unequal places on the sole, file up and sandpaper, and the work is ready for painting. If the ends of the spokes come flush with the back of the felloe, they should be slightly gouged out before the tyring is done.