Here are instructions on treating a jaunting car the varnish of which is very much worn. Scrape off all the old varnish to the wood, then glasspaper down, working with the grain of the wood. The ironwork should be scraped with an old plane-iron or knife, and then glasspapered. To stain the body darker than the natural wood, give a coat of burnt umber ground in turps, working it well into the grain with a stiff brush, and wiping off the surplus on the face of the wood. When the stain is thoroughly dry, lightly glasspaper over with the grain of the wood, to remove any small parts that may have risen, and after dusting off, give a coat of pale gold size to which about an eighth part of raw linseed oil has been added. This, when hard, is lightly glasspapei-ed off, and another coat of size with rather less oil is given. This, when dry, is treated the same as the first coat, and a coat of varnish and gold size is applied. Before putting on the next coat, the one just given will require flatting. This is done with a pad of cloth and ground pumice-stone, using plenty of water to prevent scratching.

When the surface has been gone over, well wash with water to remove every particle of dust from the quirks and corners, then give a coat of carriage varnish known as under-coating. Let this stand for a couple of days to get hard, then flat down as before, and give a full coat of pale carriage varnish. This should be sufficient for an ordinary job, but for good work another coat should be given. The ironwork should have two coats of light lead colour and one coat much darker, with light glasspapering between the coats to remove nibs, etc. Theia give a coat of dead black, one coat of shiny black, and one or two coats of black japan, the whole being got up with the body so as to be included in the varnishing when the body is done. The work should be done in a dry place, free from draughts, and kept at a temperature of about 75° F.