(1) In a clean bottle put 1 oz. crushed gum benzoin, add 1 gill proof spirit, lay by in a warm place, well shake the bottle frequently. This is a superfine finish for mouldings and turned work. May be used advantageously on any kind of small work. To use it, if the work be plain, lay on a coat of the glue and water; when dry, paper off, then take 1 part of polish and 1 of common varnish, mix together, apply with a brush, and again paper off when dry. Now take a mixture of brown hard varnish, 5 parts; polish, 1; brush it evenly over the work, the same way as the grain of the wood. When dry, again sandpaper off. Lastly, give another coating of the last mixture, to be followed, when quite dry, with a thin coat of glaze, laid on with a very soft brush. (Smither.)

(2) First, to prepare the work, give it a coat of glue, size, and whiting; when dry, rub down with fine glass - paper until quite smooth. If the wood is soft, 2 coats may be given; then prepare the enamel by putting 2 oz. common isinglass into 1 pint boiling water; when dissolved, pour in 2 oz. flake white, and give the work a coat with a camel - hair brush or fine Turkey sponge, boiling hot. 2 coats may be given if required. When dry, rub down with pumice and felt rubber until perfectly smooth. Having obtained a level surface, proceed to body - up with white polish, using a little flake white on the rubber, then spirit off. This is used in pine bedroom furniture. Any decorations may be put on with a stencil pattern, mixing the colour with white polish.

(3) In speaking of enamel, it must be understood as polished paint on the surface of woodwork, such as doors, etc. Enamelling and polishing is an art which requires the exercise of the greatest care. The work will not bear any hurry, but must go through its regular course; have its proper time to darken between each coat and pro-cess; and the rubbing down must be patiently and gently done - heavy pressure will only defeat the end in view. Great care should be taken in the selection of pumice, both lump and ground, as the slightest particle of grit or hard pressure will scratch. There are several kinds of filling - up colour used and sold by the colourmen, but most of them are of a dark colour, not suited for light work, as they require so many coats of paint afterwards that it defeats its own objects. In practice, it is best to fill up from the first with the same tint of colour you intend to finish with, which will bear much rubbing down without being shady. For all dark grounds which have to be finished with a dark colour, the black or dark filling is the best.

The tools and material required are as follows, viz.: - 1. White - lead ground in turpentine, and best white - lead in oil. 2. A clear, quick, and hard drying varnish, such as best copal, white Coburg, and white enamel varnish. 3. Ground and lamp pumice, or putty - powder. 4. Rottenstone, ground in water or oil. 5. White felt, 1/2 to 1/2 in. thick, and of the best quality. 6. Several flat wooden blocks, of various sizes and forms, suitable for getting into corners and mouldings; these must be covered with the felt on the side you intend to use. 7. 2 or 3 bosses, made of cotton - wool and covered with silk. 8. Sponge, and wash or chamois leather. Mode of Operation. - In order to simplify the description, we will take a plain panel to work upon. If it is new, give it 2 coats of oil colour, mixed in the ordinary way; now mix the white - lead ground in turps with only a sufficient quantity of varnish to bind it with, thinning to a proper consistency with turps. It is as well to add a little of the ordinary white - lead ground in oil, as it helps to prevent cracking. Give the panel 4 or 5 coats of this mixture, leaving a sufficient interval between to allow it to dry well. Let it stand for a few days, until it is hard enough to rub down.

When it is ready, you may rub it down, first with a soft piece of lump pumice and water, to take off the rough parts. Now use the felt and ground pumice, and cut it down, working the hand in a circular manner. You will require to exercise much care to rub it down to a level surface, and without scratches. When you have got it down level, if it is scratched or not sufficiently filled up, give it 1 or 2 more coats, laying it on as smoothly as you can, and rub it down as before. If done properly, it will now be perfectly smooth, level, and free from scratches; wash well down, and be careful to clean off all grit or loose pumice. Now mix flake - white from the tube with the before - named varnish, till it is of the consistency of cream. Give 1 coat of this; when dry, give another, adding more varnish to it. Now let this dry hard, the time for which will of course depend upon the drying qualities of the varnish; some will polish in 8 or 9 days, but it is much the best to let it stand as long as you possibly can, as the harder it is, the brighter and more enduring will be the polish.