Then draw the sponge across the picture to take the gum off, or it will appear a network of cracks in a day or two. When dry, varnish the picture parts only, as the black will stand longer than varnish.

(E) Japanning Tin

The first process with the tea - tray, which is made of sheet - iron, is to scour it well with a piece of sandstone, which process removes all the scales of iron and makes the surface perfectly smooth. It is then given a coat of vegetable black, which must be mixed with black tar varnish, and thinned with tar spirits and well strained: only a small quantity of var. nish, as this coat may dry dead. The article is then put into a stove to harden. This stove is nothing more nor less than a large oven; large of course where a great quantity of work is put in at one time. The heat must be as even as possible all over the heated space, and must be free from dust. Temperature must not be much, if any, under 212° F. (100° C), the articles to remain in this temperature 10 to 12 hours; when taken out of the stove, to be allowed to get cold. They then receive a coat of black tar varnish, which must in no case be thinned except, it be so thick as to be quite unworkable; and in that case tar spirits should be used sparingly. A stiffish bristle brush with short bristles should be used, such as are generally bound with iron ferrules.

The varnish is distributed evenly all over the surface, and must be put on so sparingly that it cannot "run," as japanners say, which it is sure to do immediately it gets warm, particularly on upright articles, if too much is put on. Two coats of this varnish on the top of the vegetable black is very often, sufficient when done by an expert hand, but a third coat improves the work, and very frequently is indispensable; 10 to 12 hours' hardening is requisite between the coats. It is likewise necessary to rub down the small lumps which will appear after each coat with a piece of pumice, first made fiat by rubbing it on a slab of slate. Keep dipping the pumice in water. This rubbing - down must be executed very lightly, or the smooth parts will be scratched. If the article is to be decorated with burnished gold, the first process after coming out of the stove the last time is to "rough" it. This is done with very fine pumice sand, applied with some kind of corded or roughish material. Russell cord does very well. Jean is the material mostly used. The process is very laborious, as it requires all the pressure that can be employed, and that, too, for some considerable time. It is part of the polishing.

When the surface has been made level by this, the next thing is to go through the same again; but this time, instead of using sand and the cutting material, black or soft rotten - stone must be used, with flannel or cloth kept well wetted, as before. This makes the surface exceedingly smooth, and ready to be brightened up into a fine polish by rubbing the sand up and down. The person so employed has to keep rubbing the dry soft hand into powdered white rotten - stone, and also occasionally moistening the hand by placing it on a wet cloth for the purpose. The polish soon comes up under a practical hand. All these processes are performed by women and girls. It takes months of practice in this polishing before the hand obeys the intellect. The work now passes to the ornamenter. After he has put on his ornaments of gold and colour, it is placed in a stove at only a few degrees of heat, as much heat would destroy his work. When dry, that part only of the article which is covered with ornament receives a coat of copal polishing varnish. This varnish does not improve the appearance, but is necessary to preserve the decoration. No polish or varnish can equal black varnish, which is about a fourth the price of copal.

This varnish is put on with a fiat camel - hair brush, and will harden in a heat of about 100° F. (38° C.) in 4 hours. If put in too great heat, it will turn colour, and completely spoil the work. It is now ready for "finish" polishing, which consists of the rotten - stone process again, and handing up as before, and last of all, a few spots of oil are used, with a sprinkling of water, and this is called oiling off. It requires great dexterity, or instead of adding to the lustre with the oil it will completely dull the surface. There are plenty of goods that do not go through all these processes and yet look fairly well; such, for instance, as grocers' canisters and numerous other articles. These, as soon as they have received the second coat of black varnish, are taken straight to the ornamenter without being "roughed" or polished, and if the varnish has been put on well and kept free from dust they look very well. When no polishing is done either before or after the ornamenting, the article is frequently covered all over with the copal varnish coat. The only safe way of obtaining the proper varnishes is to get them from those who supply japanners. The best black tar varnish obtainable can be had at 4s. 6d, per gal.

The best oil copal polishing varnish is 16s. per gal., inferior - qualities as low as 6s. or 7s. Oil copal polishing varnish at 12s. should be good enough for most purposes. When tin goods are to be japanned, the only preparation necessary is to clean off all grease spots with a piece of clean rag dipped in turpentine; and as to heat, when it is not too hot to disturb the solder, it will not hurt the black varnish, provided it is put on sparingly. If not, the varnish will shrivel. The finish upon grocers' canisters may easily be obtained, as there is nothing on them but good stoving and varnishing - no polishing. Coloured surfaces are ground in turpentine in a mill, or on a stone slab, and mixed with mixing varnish, which costs about 6s. per gal. If an emerald - green ground is required, some let the first coat be of white - lead mixed with varnish, and this is followed by 2 coats of the emerald - green without any white in it. The coat of white gives to the green a solidity which could not be obtained otherwise. A moderate heat is required, as these varnishes will not become hard without heat, but in no comparison to the heat, nor the time required, for black varnish. A vermilion ground is sometimes first coated with orange - red, and one coat of vermilion on that should be sufficient.