Fill quite full a pint and a half stew-pan with pieces of lump sugar, fill the stewpan with clear spring water, let the water barely cover the sugar, put it on to boil, skim it all the time that any scum arises; let it boil fast with the stewpan flat upon the fire, not halfway; it will not boil over if your fire is regular. Then get ready a large basin of cold water, and when it has boiled some time and begins to appear all froth or bladders do not go away and leave it; after having boiled so for some few minutes, have a silver spoon and dip it into it, and then into the water; if it is getting to a substance pour in the juice of half a lemon, free from pips, still keeping it boiling on the fire; keep frequently trying it by dropping and spinning a little in the cold water, and when it makes a crackling noise, and is very brittle, take off your stewpan and pour it into a cold stewpan; work it well with your spoon, give it one more boil, then take it off and hold the stewpan in cold water, stirring it all the time, for a minute or two; it is then ready for a basket, or spinning, or what you may require it for. It is but very little used now for second courses; at breakfasts and ball suppers it is generally introduced and liked, but it too frequently answers the purpose of lock and key, saying as much, as "this must not be touched;" many think it will do again, and do not like to break through it.

The various purposes to which sugar is applied require it to be in different states; these are called degrees. They extend to the number of thirteen, and are named in the following order:

Petit Lisse, Or First Degree

Replace the clarified sugar in the preserving-pan to boil gently, take a drop of it on the thumb, touch it with the forefinger; if on opening them it draws to a fine thread, and in breaking forms two drops on each finger, it is at the right point.

Lisse, Second Degree

A little more boiling brings it to this point, when the thread will draw further before it breaks.

Petit Perle, Third Degree

At this point the thread may be drawn as far as the span will open without breaking.

Grand Perle, Fourth Degree

On still increasing the boiling, little raised balls are formed on the surface of the sugar.

Petit Queue De Cochon, Fifth Degree

Take up some of the sugar on a skimmer, and drop it on the rest, when it should form a slanting streak on the surface.

Grande Queue De Cochon, Sixth Degree

Boil it yet a little longer; the streak or tail is now larger, and it has reached this point.

Souffle, 'Seventh Degree

Take out a skimmerful of the sugar, blow through it and small sparks of sugar will fly from it.

Petit Plume, Eighth Degree

The same proof as above; the sparks should be larger and stronger.

Grande Plume, Ninth Degree

Take the sugar in the skimmer as before; give it a shake, and if the sparks are large, and adhere together on rising, it is at the right point.

Petit Boulet, Tenth Degree

Dip your fingers in cold water, and then into the sugar instantly, and again into the water, when the sugar will roll into a ball which will be supple when cold.

Gros Boulet, Eleventh Degree

At this point the ball or bullet will be harder when cold than the last.

Casse, Twelfth Degree

Prove as above; the bullet should crumble between the fingers, and on biting will stick to the teeth.

Caramel, Thirteenth Degree

At this point it should snap clean when bitten. This point is very difficult to attain, for in increasing the height, the sugar is apt to burn; it is better, therefore, to try the proof very frequently.

Another caramel is much used by the confectioner, and is of a deep color; it is made by putting a little water to the sugar, and boiling it without skimming or otherwise touching the sugar till of the right color, then take it off, and use immediately.

If on preparing the sugar, you happen to miss the right point, add a little cold water, and boil once more.

The skimmer should never be left in the preserving-pan after the sugar is clarified, nor after the scum is removed.

Be very careful not to stir or disturb the sugar, as that would cause its diminution.

In boiling the sugar, particularly the two last degrees, the sugar is continuously rising and falling, and on falling leaves marks on the side of the pan, which the heat of the fire would soon burn and thereby spoil the whole of the sugar. To avoid this have a sponge with cold water, and wipe the sides of the pan the instant the sugar has fallen.