This section is from the book "The New Cyclopaedia of Domestic Economy, and Practical Housekeeper", by Elizabeth Fries Ellet. Also available from Amazon: The New Cyclopaedia of Domestic Economy, and Practical Housekeeper.
A hen lobster is indispensable for this sauce. Put some of the spawn of the fish into a mortar, to be pounded very fine; add to it a small bit of butter. When very fine, rub it through a hair sieve, and cover till wanted. Break the lobster with great care, cut all the flesh into dice, not too small; dilute some of the red spawn in melted butter, with two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, a little salt and cayenne pepper, two spoonfuls of thick cream, and mix all well before the meat is added, as that must retain its dice-like form. Do not let this sauce boil. It must be very red. Add to it a teaspoonful of cavice, and observe that the cavice should be very old; two or three years' age renders it excellent.
Put twelve spoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan; cut a middle-sized hen lobster into dice, make one-quarter pound of lobster butter with the spawn by pounding it well in a mortar, adding one-quarter pound fresh butter, and rubbing the mixture through a hair sieve; add this to the melted butter when just boiling; stir it over the fire till the butter is melted; season with a little essence of anchovy, the juice of half a lemon, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of cayenne; pass it through a tamis (a coarse flannel) into another stewpan; then add the flesh of the lobster. Serve it hot. This sauce must be red; if not red in the lobster, use live spawn.
Make the melted butter as above, but finish with essence of shrimps, and serve half a pint of pickled shrimps in the boat with it; or the anchovy sauce may be served with shrimps in it as a substitute, if there is no essence of shrimps.
Is also very good as follows: Pound half a pint of shrimps, skins and all, in a mortar, and boil them ten minutes in half a pint of water; pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a stewpan, and add a piece of butter the size of two walnuts, with which you have mixed a good teaspoonful of flour, stir it round over the fire until upon the point of boiling; if too thick, add a little more water; season with a little cayenne and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies; serve very hot; a few picked shrimps might also be served in it.
Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, cut up a small-sized lobster into dice; make a quarter of a pound of lobster butter with the spawn, as directed; when the melted butter is upon the point of boiling, add the lobster butter, stir the sauce round over the fire until the butter is melted, season with a little essence of anchovies, the juice of half a lemon, and a quarter of a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper; pass it through a tammy into another stewpan, and add the flesh of the lobster. This sauce must be red.
Peel thirty button onions, and put half a teaspoonful of sugar in a quart-sized stewpan, place it over a sharp fire, and when melted and getting brown, add a piece of butter (the size of two walnuts) and the onions, toss them over now and then until rather brown, then add a glass of sherry; let it boil; then add half a pint of brown sauce and a gill of broth; simmer at the corner of the fire until the onions are quite tender; skim it well, and add a few mushrooms, if at hand; season with a little salt and sugar, and sauce over any kind of fish where described. The addition of a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies is an imprpvement. Use where directed.
 
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