This section is from the book "The New Cyclopaedia of Domestic Economy, and Practical Housekeeper", by Elizabeth Fries Ellet. Also available from Amazon: The New Cyclopaedia of Domestic Economy, and Practical Housekeeper.
Perhaps there is no better grill for breakfast than a cold blade-bone of mutton, off which the greater part of the meat has been already cut. The remaining parts should then be scored, and the gashes filled with a mixture of mustard, cayenne, common pepper, and salt, as for a devil; it should then be put upon the gridiron, and well browned, but not burnt. It may be sent to table dry, without any sauce, or served with gravy mixed with capers.
The bones of cold fowl of all kinds are also frequently brought thus to breakfast.
Split it open, pepper it only on the inside, broil and serve it with a very little butter, and accompanied with broiled mushrooms.
Put thin slices of well-seasoned kidney and bacon, with beef or mutton also if you please, upon skewers. Have ready fine bread-crumbs, with a slight grating of lemon, brush them over with egg, and roll them into the crumbs. Hang up the skewers to roast, and put a slice of toast under to secure the gravy: when served, carefully remove the skewers, and place the. "kabobs" on the toast; but, if only a quantity sufficient to help one person be put on each skewer, then do not remove them.
If, instead of meat, an oyster be put between each slice of bacon and kidney, it will be found very superior.
Dried Salmon is likewise a good relish; and fresh mackerel, split open and broiled.
Take the remainder of any fricassee or ragout; any quantity will do; chop it fine, add a little chopped parsley, and a little bit of shalot or chive: mix it up with one or two eggs beaten, according to the quantity. Put the whole with its gravy into a stewpan, and let it reduce and thicken on the fire. Let it remain until it be cold, then cut pieces of bread, toast them: lay the mixture thickly upon them. Boil an egg hard, cut it into small pieces, and stick them on the top; brush the whole with egg beaten up, sift bread-crumbs over, and bake them in the oven; squeeze a little lemon-juice on the top. This makes also a good corner dish for dinner.
Take any stewed vegetable, and make it into a puree. Add a little more seasoning, mix it up with the yolk of an egg, and, if too thin, reduce and thicken it over the fire, then spread it upon toast, brush it over with beaten eggs, and bread-crumbs or vermicelli, and fry or bake them.
Make a well-buttered toast of brown bread., if you can get it; scale and bone a proper number of anchovies, with little or no washing; cut them into broad slices, and place them upon the toast, seasoning it with mustard, without pepper.
Fry two or three sausages; when quite hot, strip off the skins, and spread the meat upon the toast buttered with salt butter; season it with a little pepper and mustard. It will be improved by a grating of old cheese.
Take a cold veal kidney, with a part of the fat, cut it into very small pieces; pound the fat in a mortar with a little salt, white pepper and an onion previously boiled. Bind al together with the beaten whites of eggs. Heap it upon toast; cover the whole with the yolks beaten; dredge with bread-crumbs, and bake in the oven.
Grate or pound the cold ham; toast and butter a slice of bread; mix the ham with the yolk of an egg and a little cream, until it is thick and rich; warm it over the fire, and serve it very hot upon the toast. Tongue may be employed in the same way.
Toast and butter three or four slices of bread on both sides; take nine or ten anchovies, washed, scraped, and chopped fine, and put them between the slices of bread. Beat the yolks of four eggs in half a pint of cream, and set it on the fire to thicken, but not to boil. Then pour it over the toast, and send it to table as hot as possible.
Boil the rumps in gravy, and lard the kidneys with bacon; set them, along with the rumps, before the fire in a small tin . oven, rubbing them at the same time with yolk of egg and a little cayenne and nutmeg. When of a light brown, dish them up, either dry or with any pungent sauce, and garnish them with parsley.
The streaked part of a thick flank of bacon is to be preferred; cut nice slices, not above a quarter of an inch thick, take off the rind, put to broil on the gridiron over a clear fire; turn it three or four times in the space of five minutes. Serve it very hot. If any remain after dinner of boiled bacon, it is very good broiled or fried for next day's breakfast. Broiled and boiled bacon has been highly recommended to the dyspeptic.
Butter them on both sides; sprinkle cayenne pepper on the top, and send them to be grilled This may be varied by the addition of chopped anchovies, or the essence, or diavolo paste.
Or:- Make a slice of cheese into a paste with made mustard, and lay it upon one side.
Take the liver, gizzard, drumstick, and sidebones of a fowl or turkey; score them; lay on made mustard very thickly, and add a quantity of cayenne pepper and salt, and broil them.
Take any part of a turkey, goose, or fowl, cover it with mustard, Chetney, diavolo paste, or any other piquant condiment; put a dessert spoonful of cayenne pepper, one of pounded white sugar, the juice of a lemon, a glass of wine, and a glass of ketchup, to a tea-cupful of gravy; heat them together, pour over the devilled fowl, and send up very hot.
A little cold fresh butter will cool the mouth, should the grill prove too powerful.
Split a woodcock, a snipe, a wild duck, or any other game that is undone. To a teaspoonful of salt add a dessert spoonful of cayenne pepper with a tablespoonful of curry-powder, and wet the whole with French mustard. Cover the birds both inside and out with this mixture. Take out the brains when the head is split, and, if a woodcock, add the trail; make them into a paste with the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, half a blade of pounded mace, a saltspoonful of grated lemon-peel, and season it with essence of anchovies, ketchup, or other sauce; then add a glass of wine, a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, a dessertspoonful of pounded white sugar, and the juice of a lemon or orange. Roll a bit of butter, the size of a walnut, in flour; put the birds and the sauce into a metal dish over a lamp, cover it close, shake it about occasionally, and when it has stewed until the greater part of the sauce has been imbibed, serve it round. The legs of fowls, geese, and turkeys, may be devilled the same way.
No savory things are ever brought to table without this indispensable accompaniment.
In making it, pure water is most generally used, with a pinch of salt and sugar, though both are frequently omitted: but a much better mode for preserving it, as well as adding to it a good flavor, is to make it of water in which horseradish has been boiled. This costs no trouble; for if the horseradish be scraped and put in a teacup with boiling water poured upon it, and covered, the infusion will be strong enough in little more than half an hour.
The Parisian mustard, known as mou-tarde de maille, is however much in vogue among gastronomists, as possessing a finer pungency of flavor, and may be imitated by mixing up the flour and a little fine salt with salad oil, so as to form a thick paste, then diluting it to a certain degree with equal quantities of the vinegars of horseradish, tarragon, chili, and garlic; or sufficient of each to please the palate. Cayenne should never be used, and even chili vinegar but sparingly.
Sandwiches require more care than is usually bestowed on them, for this reason, that every one believes he can cut sandwiches. Where any quantity is required the bread should be made on purpose, and the baker should be desired to bake it in tins, and either add a little butter to it or raise it well before it is put into the tins, so that it should not be full of holes, as in that case too much butter is used, and the sandwich becomes disagreeable from being greasy. Out the bread moderately thin, butter it very slightly indeed, lay the meat cut thin, season it with salt, pepper, and mustard, as may be required: cover with a second slice of bread, trim the edges, put them one on the other, and cover with a damp cloth until wanted.
Where tongue is used it should be boiled the day before, and, when thoroughly done, pressed in the mould in which the bread is to be baked.
Chickens boned, and farced with a small quantity of farce of veal and ham, and treated in the same way, will make excellent sandwiches.
Soyer recommends for breakfast also-
Break three eggs into a small stewpan, add a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of that quantity of pepper, and two ounces of fresh butter, (the fresher the better;) set the stewpan over a moderate fire, and stir the eggs round with a wooden spoon, being careful to keep every particle in motion, until the whole has become a smooth and delicate thickish substance; have ready a convenient-sized crisp piece of toast, pour the eggs upon it, and serve immediately Herring may be laid between the eggs and toast.
Eggs au Beurre (a new Method.)-Let the eggs boil six minutes, then take them out, dip them for two seconds in cold water, crack and peel off the shells, and lay them in a hot plate; cut each egg in halves lengthwise, spread a little fresh butter, and sprinkle a little salt over the interior, and eat them very hot.
 
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