"The observed of all observers " when epicureans sit at table; it is a joint, if properly kept, properly cooked and served hot, which must prove delicious. The delicacy of its flavor is obtained by hanging only: if it be cooked while fresh, it will not equal in any respect a haunch of mutton.

The haunch of venison, when about to be roasted, should be washed in warm milk and water, and dried with a clean cloth; if it has hung very long and the skin smells musty, it will be the safest plan to remove the skin and wrap the whole of the haunch in paper well greased with fresh butter; during the time it is at the fire, do not be afraid of basting it too much. If it be a buck haunch and large, it will take nearly four hours within five or ten minutes; if comparatively small, three hours and a half will suffice; if a doe haunch, three hours and a quarter will be enough.

All venison for roasting should have a paste made of lard over it; after first having papered the meat with buttered paper, then your stiff paste upon the top of that, either dangle it or put it in a cradle spit; a few minutes before you require to take it up take off the paste and paper, baste it with some butter, salt it and flour it, when done give it a few more turns round, send it up very hot; your dish and gravy is to be very hot also; any dry pieces and the shank you will boil down with a little brown stock for the gravy; send currant jelly in a boat, and French beans in a vegetable dish.