This section is from "Every Woman's Encyclopaedia". Also available from Amazon: Every Woman's Encyclopaedia.
Where the nose reddens on the slightest provocation, care must be taken not to hurt the abnormal sensitiveness of the skin by the use of cotton handkerchiefs, cheap veilings, or strong perfumes.
If the red nose is the sign of nervousness, excitement must be avoided, and the system toned. A quick way of abating the redness of nose caused by excitement is to plunge the hands or the feet into hot water.
When using powder for the nose particular care must be taken, as powder put upon a red nose has a trick of being obvious. Use first a little emollient cream, or the lotion given above, and powder judiciously.

During childhood the care of the hair must be left to mother or nurse, but as soon as a girl reaches her teens she should be taught to brush and dress her hair herself. Even if her parents are wealthy enough to give her a lady's-maid, she should still know how," for nothing is more ridiculous than the woman whose head is at the mercy of a hireling, and who, if her maid falls ill, or a new one proves incompetent, has to appear with her coiffure, usually charming, manquee.
Too often English girls are not allowed to "do" their own hair until they turn it up and "come out," but then untrained fingers make a sad mess of things. The chic appearance of American women is due largely to the cleverness with which their hair is done, but the average upper-class English girl often does not find out the most becoming way to do her hair till she has left the freshness of her youth behind her.
Every girl of thirteen should be taught to part her hair down the centre of the scalp, and brush it for at least five minutes by the clock, night and morning. Her mother or governess should see that she does it, for schoolgirls are inclined to scamp this task. She should be taught to insert the brush diagonally, the outer edge of the bristles first, and not to lay the whole surface of bristle points on the scalp, and then to draw the whole brush gently down to the very edge of the hair, as a good lady's-maid does, and not with what Baroness von Hutten once called "the short, tangling strokes of the maid-accustomed woman."
The Use of Curling Tongs
She should next be taught to do her hair. If at first she is terribly clumsy over it, it may be done by a grown-up in the morning; but she should do it once every evening, just before going to bed, till she has learned the knack. "The girl who still has her hair down cannot wear it too simply. The use of hot curling tongs, or of "French-combing," should never be allowed till she is eighteen. As few combs as possible should be worn, and ribbon ties should never be less than an inch wide, for narrow ties are apt to cut the hair, which, if must be remembered, is a living growth, requiring food, light, air, and exercise, much as people do.
While some schoolgirls pine to do their hair very elaborately, no matter how they may injure its future in the process, others have too little pride in it, and are only anxious to be allowed to drag it back from the forehead and fasten it up in a tight, hard plait. This should not be permitted either. It is best for the hair to hang loose as long as it can; but if it must be plaited, the plait should be a loose one, and at night the hair should be left entirely free. If the girl sleeps quietly, it will not get into any tangles that a moment's brushing will not take out. If she is so restless at nights that her hair becomes really badly knotted, it is obvious that she is not sleeping well, and her health should be inquired into.
The simplest, and at the same time one of the prettiest, ways of doing a schoolgirl's hair is to divide it across the head from ear to ear, the under portion left to flow, the upper half gathered up, tied on the crown of the head, then loosely plaited and tied again with a smaller bow. This keeps the hair perfectly tidy, but leaves it free.
For parties a little more elaboration is permissible, and it is while a girl is still in her teens that she should be taught to notice and make the best of the " points " of her appearance. This is part of the duty that owes to society. In these artistic days it is not sufficient to be well-groomed and neat. Each girl's hair should be dressed with regard to her individual looks. There are few more pathetic sights than a family of sisters, whom Nature has made different from each other, dressed alike; for, in consequence, one or two look pretty and the rest needlessly plain.
The first point to study is the shape of the head. A well-shaped head is a great beauty, and one too seldom seen, because women persist in hiding it under great puffs of hair. Men appreciate it much more than women. The husband of one of the most beautiful women in England declares that he first fell in love with her exquisitely-shaped head, so that if her blue-black hair had been puffed out over a frame and tortured into bunches of curls, instead of parted at the side and knotted up on the nape of her neck, there would presumably be one happy marriage the less in England!
A perfect head, however, is rare, and it is a great score for women that we are now allowed by fashion to arrange our hair to hide our defects; but it does not do to follow too blindly the old rule that a long face should be dressed to give breadth, and a short face have the hair piled on the crown to give height. It is often better to add length to a short face by wearing "Peter Pan" collars and leaving the neck bare - which generally causes it to round out prettily in a month or two - because a short, round face often goes with a round, bullet head, and takes on a disastrous resemblance to a cottage loaf when a bun of hair is placed a-top of it. Many such girls will look quite elegant and graceful if their hair is parted in the middle, puffed out a very little at the side with combs, and clubbed in the nape of the neck.
Parting a Girl's Hair
If a parting is used for a young girl, however, it should be changed every three months, as partings have always a tendency to wear thin later on. The hair nearly always recedes from a natural parting earlier than anywhere else, as one may observes in one's menfolk; so that, unless the hair is quite unusually thick, the natural parting should not be used. In any case, the hair must be brushed over the parting now and again, and the scalp well massaged, because one cause of the thinning is the fact that the hair is brushed away from the parting, and the skin there is not reached by the brush.
The straight fringe on the forehead, so common years ago, has fortunately fallen now into disfavour, for perpetually cropping this front bit of hair seems to weaken it, and it is just above the forehead that it is most important for the hair to be abundant. If the schoolgirl's forehead is too high, 01 of an ugly shape, it is better to let her put up with it and concentrate her energies on growing a fine head of hair in preparation for her "coming out." For parties, of course, it is another matter, and there are many charming ways in which it can be dressed. A child with an oval face looks fascinating with her hair parted in the middle, brushed smooth and silky close to the crown, caught in above the ears with a knot of ribbon, and thereafter allowed to stream in ringlets.
The "wet rag" of our grandmothers is excellent for making these, or some of the light, soft curlers now on the market; but if the hair is very straight, it is always a pity to try and curl it, because it never matches the face, and, moreover, in an hour or two it falls out of ringlets into rat's-tails.
Straight hair can sometimes be coaxed to lie in a heavy wave over the forehead, curving from a side parting and tied in a bow behind the opposite ear. It is quite remarkable how hair can be trained in the way one wishes it to go with a fortnight or so of perseverence, especially that stiff, springy hair, which is so rebellious against each new method at first. Straight hair also looks well when drawn back from the face in Marie Antoinette style and puffed out at the sides with combs, or by having the long ends rolled under to make a sort of pompadour.
Then girls of the "piquante demure" type often look well with their hair brushed down over the ears - in the style which was so unbecoming to Queen Victoria's round face - into two plaits, which hang in front over the shoulders, tied with black velvet bows, the back portion of hair being plaited and clubbed behind.
For girls who are a good deal older, and have very good heads of hair, the German fashion of a plait all round the head is good, but it only suits long-headed people.
Few girls have hair so magnificent that it will make a single, even plait all round the head. The hair should be plaited in two at the nape, crossed, and brought round to the top, where the narrow ends of the plaits will lie side by side, the extreme tips being tucked away with a hairpin or two under the thickness. The front hair can then be pulled out soft and full round the face, and the effect is wonderfully girlish and becoming.
To club thin, long hair in a single insignificant plait is a great mistake. It should also be plaited in two to give breadth, but tied with a single bow.
 
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