(In season September - February) Required: A brace of partridges.

Buttered toast.

Salad oil.

Salt, pepper, butter. Split the birds open through the breastbone, but not through the backbone, so that they open like a book. Rub over lightly with oil, and dust with pepper. Grease the gridiron, lay the birds on it with a skewer through them to keep them flat. Broil over a clear, sharp fire for about eight minutes on either side. Next draw out the skewer, rub each bird over with butter, and lay them on slices of hot buttered toast. Serve the birds as hot as possible. A popular accompaniment to this dish is maitre d'hotel butter. To prepare this, put a level tablespoonful of butter on a plate, mix with it a small teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, a few drops of lemon-iuice. and a lisrht dust of cavenne.