This section is from the book "Cookery Reformed: Or The Lady's Assistant", by P. Davey and B. Law.
The tench is a fish at present in great esteem for its taste : it delights chiefly in (landing waters, and in flow musddy rivers; but is no lover of clear rapid streams. For which reason the use of it is condemned by some. But as lakes and ponds are the natural habitation of these fish, and as experience informs us that they are at lead as good as carp, we need not abstain from them on that account. It yields good nourishment to healthy persons of sound constitutions, but is not so proper tor the weak and unhealthy.
There are several sorts of trouts, which are different with respect to the water which they inhabit, their size, and their colour. Some are sound in rapid brooks and rivulets, and others in lakes. Some are blackish, others reddish, or rather of a gold colour. The largest kind is the salmon trout, which some think to be nothing but a young sal mon. A trout is covered with small scales commonly monly spotted with red. Those are best that are fat, well fed, and whofe flesh is reddish; they are easy of digestion, afford good nourishment, and increase the seminal fluid. They are most in season in the summer, and should not be kept long before they are drest. In winter their fine flavour is loft.
Common gudgeons are very well known, and are to be met with everywhere. Sea gudgeons have a long roundish body about fix inches long, and of various colours; the tail and fins are of a pale blew; the head is large and has a double row of small teeth. Gudgeons are a very innocent harmless fish, and may be allowed to weak persons. It is in use at all times, and may be eaten by persons of all constitutions.
Smelts arc small fish which are bred in the sea, and come up into rivers, particularly the Thames, in the spring season, where they are caught. They are not unlike gudgeons, but have a violet smell, a bright pear colour, are a much greater delicacy, and have a much finer flavour. They make a very innocent dish, and are very far from producing any bad effects, for they may be eaten by weak sickly persons as well as those that are in health.
Lampreys are of two kinds, the sea and the river lamprey; these last are very small in comparison of the other. The sea lampreys advance up the rivers in the spring every year to spawn, at which time they are in season, and are best tailed; after which they become hard and tough, losing their fine relish. They have a gristle down the back, but no bones, and are best known by seven holes under their eyes all in a row, which some call eyes. The flesh is soft and clammy, and yet more easily digested than that of an eel, of which kind it is. When properly drest, they yield good nourish-ment, and produce no bad effects, but they are fittest for persons in health and of hot constitutions.
The salmon is a sea-fish, but comes up the rivers to spawn, growing to a great bulk, for some have weighed thirty six pounds. It is spotted with red or yellow spots, has small scales, a little head, a sharp spout, and a forked tail. It is often caught in the Thames and Severn, but is brought to Lon-don,in the greatest quantities,from the rivers of the North, either fresh or pickled. The flesh of a salmon is flakey, sweet, luscious, and extremely well tasted : but there is no fish whatever is harder of digestion, and more apt to load the stomach. However, this inconvenience may be remedied by eating sparingly, and by proper dressing. It is nourishing, strengthening, and restorative, agreeing best with the strong and robust, but is not proper for the weak and sickly.
 
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