This section is from the "The French Cook" book, by Louis Eustache. Also see Amazon: The French Cook.
Cut the whites of eggs boiled hard into fillets as long as you can make them: cut a few truffles, onions, and mushrooms the same, sweat the whole except the eggs, in a little butter. When done put the ingredients in a hair sieve to drain the butter. Next make a sauce a la crime, which must be rather thick, mix the liquor in which the truffles, etc. have been sweated, with the sauce, and set them boiling. When it is thick enough, put the fillets of eggs into it, and let it cool over ice. Make two boudins, which you dip into an omelette, as you do the boudins it la Reine. Fry them, and send them up with fried parsley be-tween the boudins. These make a very good entree when you are short of dishes in the country. All the preceding dishes, from No. 7 to this last, are entrees.
Beat some whites of eggs, which boil in milk, with a little salt. Cut them all of a size with a spoon, and drain them. Then boil a pint of cream. When it boils, throw in the thin outside peel of half a lemon, a little sugar, and a very small quantity of salt; let the lemon steep. Then beat the yolks of four eggs with the cream, and let it thicken on the fire. When the cream is thick enough, strain it through a tammy, and mask the eggs a la neige with this sauce. Another time, instead of lemon, use leaves of rose, or almond laurel; although in England it is considered poisonous, a small quantity is never injurious.
Put a little fresh butter at the bottom of small China cups, called cocottes. Break a fine new-laid egg over the butter, with a little salt and some coarse pepper. Lay these over some red hot ashes, and then use the salamander till the eggs are done soft.
There are various sorts of eggs brouilles, namely: - with champignons, with cardes, with truffles, with cucumbers, with verjuice, with broth, and with asparagus heads, which are made as follows:
Break eight eggs into a clean stew-pan with half a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little salt and pepper; beat the eggs till the whites and yolks are well blended. Then put the stew-pan on a slow fire, and keep constantly stirring with a wooden spoon; mind that the eggs brouilles are never to be grumous, or clotty. A spoonful of broth or sauce makes them more delicate.
The various sorts of vegetables are very numerous, and for all that, the cook is often left with a scarcity of dishes for the second course, as most of the better sort make their appearance all at the same time of the year. Winter is a season of peculiar difficulty for entremets of vegetables, as the nobility of this country do not use any of the dry floured vegetables; you are therefore left with only cardans, spinach, salsifis, brocolis, and potatoes; and in this short list of vegetables little variety is left for the table, except in the different ways of dressing.
The same operation as above. Take a few pieces of beef marrow, all of a size, which you put to disgorge in warm water, to draw out all the blood. When thoroughly disgorged, blanch and stew it in a little water with a little salt, and a few slices of lemon to keep it white. When done, put it into the essence, which is nothing but some Espagnole reduced; unless you have some essence, or Espagnole, as mentioned among the sauces. Drain the fat, and do not forget to put a little sugar; which is requisite in all dishes of cardons, as it makes them much better.
The same preparation as in the two preceding articles. Take some out of the blanc, trim and stew them in a little consomme, and when they are done, drain and sauce them with some valoute.
The same preparation as above, only sauce with the sauce blanche, or French melted butter.
This dish, which I introduce foremost amongst all the entremets of vegetables, requires great attention, and no small share of skill in the art of cookery. It is not much relished in England, but in France it was held in the highest estimation. By the by, it was always one of those selected for the trial of a cook.
In the first place, you must select a few heads of cardons all very white. Cut each leaf into slices of six inches long; with the exception however of those that are hollow, which are tough and thready. Beard them of their prickles, and blanch them, by putting the thickest leaves into boiling water. When you have given these a few boils, put in the leaves of the heart; turn the middle stalks into large olives, and blanch them likewise. Then try a piece of cold water, to see whether the slime which is on the surface will come off by rubbing. If so, take them off the fire immediately, and throw them into cold water, as they are done enough ; or you may cool the boiling water, by pouring cold into it till you are able to bear your hand in it, to rub off all the slime. This being done, throw the cardans into a blanc, give them a single boil, and leave them in the blanc. Whenever you wish to use them, drain a sufficient quantity. Pare both extremities, and mark them in a stew-pan, with four spoonfuls of Espagnole and four spoonfuls of consomme, a little salt, and a little sugar. Let them boil over a sharp fire, that they may not be done too much; be sure to skim off all the fat. Dish them nicely. Strain the sauce through a tammy before you mask them. Send them up to table quite hot with a cover over them, to prevent their getting dry.
 
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