Hot And Cold Pastry

It will not be amiss to observe in this place, that notwithstanding the immense number of articles of pastry that may be made, you proceed nearly always on the same principle, and with the same paste. It rests with the intelligent practitioner to multiply the arrangements and forms: with regard to the taste, it will always be found to be a compound of butter, flour, sugar, etc. The various sweetmeats that serve for garnishing pastry, most essentially contribute to. improve its appearance and savour. However, the puff paste, which is sent up to table in above a hundred different forms, can be made in one single way only: it may, however, be more or less fine, and thicker or thinner. You may make it finer by using a great deal of butter, but then it has less substance. I shall treat of the different kinds of paste. The baking of pastry requires particular attention. You must be well acquainted with the oven, to be enabled to send up nice pastry. The best prepared paste, if not properly baked, will be good for nothing. I recommend strict attention to these remarks ; be also very punctual in observing the effects of the paste, and always use dry flour.

Pate Brisee

It is impossible to point out the exact quantity of paste requisite for a pie, as that depends entirely on the size of it. Take two pounds of well sifted and dried flour, spread it on a dresser, make a large hole in the centre, into which put a pinch of salt, three eggs, yolks and white together, a glass of water, and three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter. Work the butter with the flour till it begins to look like crumbs of bread, then mix the whole together, till it becomes quite malleable; if the paste is too firm, add a little water. Now work it well with your hands, and make it as firm as possible, for if it is not very firm, you will never be able to erect the circumference or flank works of a pie. I have found out a method both easy and expeditious, of erecting these walls (for I will venture to call them so), in such a manner as that they never tumble or shrink, as is too often the case under the management of many unskilful pastry-cooks.

Take a lump of paste, proportionate to the size of the pie you are to make; mould it in the shape of a sugar-loaf, put it upright on the table, then with the palm of your hand flatten the sides of it; always keep the middle high and upright; when you have equalized it all round, and it is quite smooth, squeeze the middle of the point at about half the height of it, and give it the shape of a hat; thus it is kept quite even, and this is executed with so much celerity, that you can make a dozen of them in an hour's time. Now, if you wish to make a cold pie, trim the middle of the paste and all round, with layers of bacon cut of an equal size: lay those layers double all oyer except on the border, that you may leave room to stick the cover or upper crust on. First put in some farce (See Farce for Pies); next having boned the game or poultry, season the middle well with salt, pepper, and allspice, and lard the most fleshy parts with slices of bacon highly seasoned, for it is to be observed that pies taste very insipid unless they are highly seasoned. Now open the bird by the back, spread it on the table, and put some of the farce over the inside; put plenty of salt, and close the bird, etc. to restore it to its former shape; lay it over the farce. If you dress more than one, mind that they are all equally filled with the farce. Should you wish to put in truffles, mince some with the farce, and strew the pie equally with whole ones that have been well peeled, yet always as much towards the top as possible, that they may be seen at the opening of the pie. As wealthy individuals never eat any but the upper part of a pie, I am induced to recommend the timballe in preference.

When the pie is quite full, cover it with bacon, the same as you do to trim the sides. Fill all the cavities with butter. Next spread with the roller, a lump of paste of a size somewhat larger than your pie. Use the brush all round. Mind that the top is quite level. Stick the top or cover well over the border, make a hole, like a chimney funnel, in the middle of this top or cover, and stick apiece of paste round it, made in the shape of a stick of sealing-wax. Now cut some blades or leaves of paste, which are to be made as I shall direct hereafter. Place them close to each other round the aperture, without stopping it, and use a little water to make them stick. When you have done with the summit, pinch the bottom part, and the circumference of the upper part; decorate the sides or flanks to the best of your abilities. This, however, being only a matter of theory, it is impossible to enter into an explanation that would require volumes.

N. B. - The feuilles (blades, leaves,) are made in the following shape.

You must fold down the point marked ||, but not lay the leaves too flat. Glaze the whole with an egg well beaten, and next bake the pie in an oven that is not very hot. Four hours are required to bake it: mind to watch its baking, and if it should acquire too brown a colour, cover it with paper.