This section is from the "The French Cook" book, by Louis Eustache. Also see Amazon: The French Cook.
The pine-apple, although a very odoriferous fruit, is not very juicy. Clarify some sugar, (See No. 6,) take the rind of a pine-apple, and turn the best part equally. Let it be of the diameter of a crown-piece, but a little thicker. Boil it in the sugar, squeeze into the syrup the juice of a lemon or two, and put to it some isinglass ready clarified. Strain the whole through a bag; next put in the mould a little of the pine-apple jelly, and when there are about three-eighths of an inch deep at the bottom of the mould, put the mould on ice to freeze. When firm, lay slices of pine-apple symmetrically over the jelly. Mind that they are quite dry, and use a little jelly to make them stick together. When the jelly is frozen to a substance, put in a little more to freeze again, then fill the mould, and put some ice all round. If the pine-apple does not look well enough to be served in the jelly, send up the jelly by itself, but keep the slices of the fruit in sugar, as they will serve another day to make pine-apple fritters. This jelly appears very well with a Mosaic on the surface of the mould.
Notwithstanding calf's foot jelly is seldom made alone, yet it is incumbent on me to explain how it ought to be made. Bone the calf's feet first, put them into warm water to disgorge all the blood, then boil them in clear water, and skim till the water is quite limpid. Then put the stew-pan on a small stove, and let it boil gently till the calf's feet are well done. Drain the liquor through a double silk sieve; skim the fat off with the most scrupulous attention, then throw a large piece of sugar into the liquor. Six feet make a large dish. Throw likewise into the jelly the peel of four lemons, and also the juice; add to this a stick of cinnamon, a few cloves, a little allspice, and break four eggs whole, but very fresh, into the mixture. Smell the eggs, one after another, for if one of them should not be fresh and sweet, it would spoil the whole jelly. Whip the jelly, but take care the rod is not greasy. Lay the jelly on the fire, and keep beating it till it begins to turn white, and to bubble round the stew-pan. Then remove the stew-pan from the fire, cover it, and lay some fire on the cover. This fire is intended to preserve the strength of the jelly, which otherwise (the steam dropping from the lid) would become weak. When the jelly has simmered for an hour on a very slow fire, strain it through a bag. It must be strained several times over to make it quite bright; then put it into the mould, and lay it on ice till it is frozen; send it up like all other jellies. It must be very clear and transparent.
This jelly is made exactly in the same manner as the preceding one. When the jelly is nearly clarified, pour into the same stew-pan a bottle or two of Madeira. As the operation of clarifying takes away the strength of the wine, you must add half a bottle of brandy to it. You must observe that this jelly will keep for several days, and that accordingly what you have left, and what is sent down from table, will be sufficient to supply you with another entremet on another day. This is a common jelly, which cooks and traiteurs frequently serve ; therefore, in order to avoid monotony, you must ornament it with another jelly, which you make as follows:
Take four spoonfuls of the wine jelly, break the yolks of four eggs into a stew-pan, beat the eggs with the jelly, and lay it on the fire to thicken; then strain it through a sieve, lay it on ice, and use it for the same purpose, to decorate, as at No. 8.
N. B. - It will sometimes happen that the jellies made of calf's feet, will break, when you turn them upside down into a dish. To prevent this accident, throw in a pinch of isinglass when you are going to clarify the jelly. It gives it a greater substance.
It will be necessary to mention in this No. 1, that there is but little variety in the manner of making fromages, they only vary in the taste ; so that by recurring to this number, it will be impossible ever to commit a mistake.
If in the summer season, take, according to the size of them, eight or twelve ripe apricots: take away the peel and stones; throw the apricots into a mortar, and pound them with a little sugar. When well pounded, rub them through a tammy, and press upon the fruit with a new wooden spoon. Mix a little melted isinglass with this puree. Beat a pint of thick cream well, and mix it with the apricots also. Taste whether the cream is sweetened enough. Continue to whip it over ice, till you perceive that the isinglass is well melted and blended with the mixture; then put the frontage into a mould, round which you heap a large quantity of ice with salt. If you do not attend particularly to the stirring of it over ice, the apricot will fall to the bottom of the mould, so that when you turn the icecream upside down into the dish, it will appear of two colours, and the yellow part will be tough. In winter-time take a pot of marmalade of apricots, and rub it into a puree through a hair sieve ; mix a little pounded sugar with it, and a little melted isinglass. Then as above, take a pint of thick cream, or more, according to the mould, whip it well, mix it gently over ice with the fruit, and when they are well mixed, put them into the mould, and surround it with ice.
 
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