This section is from the book "The American Garden Vol. XI", by L. H. Bailey. Also available from Amazon: American Horticultural Society A to Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants.
WELL begun - half done !" Good plants are indispensable to a good beginning. To insure having them just when soil, season and hands are ready, and the weather favorable, they should be grown at home - a task by no means difficult.
To grow the plants, procure good seed from a reliable source. As early in spring as the condition of ground will permit, prepare a smooth, mellow seed bed in any convenient spot, where the soil is rich and reasonably free from weed seeds. Mineral manures make firm, stiff plants; hence wood ashes and phosphatic fertilizers, applied broadcast and thoroughly raked in, are preferable to even the best compost with its probable weed seed supply.
Mark out drills not more than one-half inch deep and not less than ten inches apart, and scatter the seed in them evenly, like sowing carrots. Do not cover, but walk over each row, putting the heel of one foot just ahead of the toe of the other, thus stepping upon every inch of row with your full weight, and pressing the seed firmly into the soil. The natural moisture of the ground insures prompt germination under this treatment ; and the application of a light mulch of litter, practiced by some, though perhaps beneficial in a few cases, yet, as a rule, proves superfluous. Allow no weeds to grow, and keep the soil well pulverized between the rows all the time, loose soil being a perfect mulch. Repeated light dressings of nitrate of soda are of wonderful help. Thin where too thick, leaving about fifty plants to the rod. If tops grow rank, shear them back once or twice to make stocky plants.
I practice sowing a few rows of celery in my vegetable garden at the same time and in the same manner that I sow my early vegetables; and there, all receive the same treatment. The rows are frequently cultivated with either Ruhlman's wheel hoe or Gregory's finger-weeder, and weeded by hand as Often as required. Thus I raise a row of celery plants about as cheaply as one of cabbage plants or radishes. The same length of row produces nearly twice as many celery plants as it would cabbage plants ; and the former are worth twice as much money.
There are few localities where a limited number of good celery plants would not find ready sale at 50 cents per 100. This pays exceedingly well, and often more than the production of marketable celery. Hence these minute directions.
Growing the crop from good plants is comparatively easy. If not grown at home, I would rather buy them of a skilful grower near by, than risk the uncertainties of long transportation by express.
Between July 1st, perhaps even earlier for very early use, and August 1st (later at the south) the plants are. set in rows three or four feet apart for dwarf, four or five feet for tall varieties, and six inches apart in the row. A rich piece of land, just cleared from any early garden crop, is usually in fit condition for celery without manure, except perhaps a dressing of wood ashes and phosphates scattered over the rows and mixed thoroughly with the soil before setting plants. If the soil is not rich enough, a deep furrow may be plowed out for each row, half filled with fine compost and this well mixed with the soil in the bottom of furrow. Coarse strawy stuff is not wanted. Re-fill with soil, leaving a slight depression so as to make the surface of the piece somewhat undulating. Stretch a garden line along the row and set the plants, after shortening tops and tap root and dipping roots in water, in the usual manner, always pressing the soil firmly about the roots. Select for this work a time when the soil is fairly moist - neither wet nor dry.
In a dry time set after 4 P. M. and water plants freely after setting.
Now keep the path clean and the surface of the soil open and mellow close up to the plants at all times. The first step toward " blanching " is the "handling." Plow light furrows towards the rows, or draw loose soil up to them with the hoe. Gather all stalks of one plant together; hold them firmly with one hand, and with the other pack enough soil around it to keep the plant permanently in this upright position. More soil is then drawn up with the plow or hoe. For plants to be stored for winter, this "handling" is sufficient; but if intended for fall use, the crop has to undergo the blanching process. With plow and hoe bring the soil between the rows up to the plants, putting the finish on with the spade until only a few inches of the tops are visible. This is done from September to November, or from three to four weeks before the crop is wanted for market or home consumption.
The most popular way of storing for winter is by placing a row close together in narrow trenches, the tops even with surface of ground, and by covering with boards and litter to exclude light, rain and frost. Or the plants may be placed upright upon a layer of moist soil in a dark cellar. Various other methods are practiced in a small way. Never handle while frozen.
The best varieties: The coarseness of the tall kinds has nearly driven them out of general cultivation. The dwarf sorts are good, but I know not one superior to Golden Heart (or Golden Dwarf), with its beautiful rich yellow heart, when blanched. White Plume is a so-called " self-blanching " sort, and, in theory, needs only "handling" without blanching, To bring out its best flavor, however, it requires the laborious "earthing up " or blanching process as much as any other.
New York. T. Greiner.
 
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