April is early enough in all the northern states for the starting of egg-plants. In fact, better results usually come from late than from early starting. I made several ineffectual attempts at eggplants before I learned this point. Plants started the first or even last of March, in Michigan or New England, are apt to be excelled by those sown the middle of April. At least this has been my experience. If one has the room and the time, early plants can be kept in a thrifty condition by frequent shiftings, and a good crop may result; but under ordinary good treatment it is safer to start the plants only six or eight weeks before they are to be placed in the field.

A second important point in egg-plant culture is delay in setting in the field. The cool nights and raw days of May are injurious to the plants. Although last spring was a forward one, our egg-plants were not planted out until June 12th, and this proved to be early enough. Plants started the middle of April gave results as good or better than those started the middle or last of March. The eggplant requires a high and constant temperature, and the plants should not be allowed to become checked. I have never had success in growing them in a hot-bed. We sow the seeds in a forcing-house in flats, and handle them into 2-in, or 3-in. pots and then into 4-in. pots.

The soil for egg-plants should be deep and rich, and one which is not greatly affected by dry weather. "Quick" fertilizers - those in which plant food is quickly available - are necessary.

Culture should be very frequent, but it possesses no points of peculiarity.

Although varieties are not numerous, they are exceedingly various. Our plantation last year included 23 names, nearly all those offered in America, France and japan. A number of these proved to be identical. Fig. 1, above, shows a collection of our varieties. There are few illustrations of eggplants which convey an accurate idea of a model or average plant. Figs. 2 to 5, from photographs taken in our garden last year, represent good types. Of the very large varieties - those of which the fruits attain a diameter of 10 or 12 inches - but one or two mature fruits need be expected on a plant, while from four to eight fruits to the plant is a good crop of the medium and small sorts. Fig. 2 represents a plant of the French Violette ronde tres grosse, or Large Round Violet, which is the largest egg plant I know. A single fruit is represented at No. 7 in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is the French Violette longue, or Long Violet. Fig. 4 is the White Chinese, Blanche tongue de Chine. Fig. 5 is the common Round White, one of the most attractive varieties, but inferior for the table.

For market purposes the Black Pekin and New York Improved are the most popular and probably the most profitable, but for home use I prefer smaller and earlier sorts. My favorite is the Early Dwarf Purple, represented at Nos. 11 and 21 in Fig. 1. These dwarf sorts are early and productive, and the ripe fruits will persist a long time without cracking. One or two of them makes a meal, while the fruits of the large sorts are too large for one or even two meals. It is commonly supposed that the white sorts are not edible, but this is a mistake. The White Chinese is equally as good as any of the colored sorts.

It is to be regretted that the egg-plant is not more generally grown and appreciated. It is one of the best of vegetables and one of the most interesting to grow. This neglect is no doubt due the difficulties of culture and to ignorance as to proper methods of serving the fruit. The important points in culture are discussed above, and subsequent issues of The American Garden will contain instructions to the housewife for preparing the fruits for the table.

Cornell University. L. H. Bailey.