TO SUCCESSFULLY grow the tomato under glass requires careful exercise of judgment on the part of the grower, rather than strict adherence to any set rules. The following notes, however, are offered as general hints to guide the cultivator :

Heat, light and pure air in abundance are the first requisites of success. Remembering the habitat of the tomato in its wild state, and noting the effect on the plants in the garden, of cold, dark days in spring and fall we can readily understand the necessity of the first two elements. Pure air is necessary in order to avoid the influences of the constantly changing temperature outside, and that the condition of the atmosphere in the house may be under better control. The above conditions are all best obtained by having a large house. Twenty by fifty feet is a good size.

To make the best use of the house, two crops should be grown during the season. This will bring each crop at a season when the expense of heating, during a part of the time, will be light. Plants for the first crop should be started about the first of August. If the house is large, or if two or more houses are to be used, more seed should be sown in about three weeks to give a succession. For the second crop, seed may be sown in November. The plants will then be ready to take the place of the first lot when the fruit is off in January. We have tried several kinds of receptacles for the plants when put in place for fruiting. Among these were ten-inch pots, and ten-inch wooden boxes, each containing one plant; eighteen-inch boxes containing four plants, and the open border. The eighteen-inch boxes have proved most satisfactory. These boxes are made a foot deep. In the bottom, cracks are left or holes bored for drainage. In preparing the boxes for the plants, place a good layer - at least an inch - of charcoal, broken crockery, or "clinkers" from the furnace in the bottom ; then fill to within two inches of the top with rich garden soil, or better, with prepared soil consisting of three parts fibrous loam, and one part well-rotted stable manure.

This method provides sufficient body of earth to prevent rapid drying out; and still the roots are somewhat confined, thus tending to induce earlier maturity of fruit than in the open border. The method is well represented by the accompanying cut, from a photograph of our tomato house last winter.

The fruit is always borne on one side of the stem, and it is a common notion that the plants must be so placed chat this side of the stem shall be toward the sun. This precaution is entirely unnecessary.

In training, the plants are tied to small cords fastened to the corners of the boxes and attached above to wires running lengthwise of the building on the rafters. All side shoots should be removed as often as once in two weeks. As the fruit sets, the clusters should be supported by means of a cord or a piece of raffia passing around the main stem, below a leaf to prevent slipping, and forming a "sling".

When the plants are about five feet high, or when three or four clusters of fruit have set, the terminal bud should be pinched off. This will cause the vitality of the plant to be utilized in the development of the fruit. At this time it is well to stir the surface of the soil and work in a quantity of manure. A little more soil may also be added.

In the general care of the house, it will be necessary to attend carefully to; 1, temperature; 2, humidity of atmosphere; 3, watering ; 4, pollination.

A temperature of 6o° should be maintained at night. On bright days the mercury may run up to 8o°, or higher ; but in dark weather, ventilate at 700. Do not permit cold draughts to strike the plants. While the plants are young, the atmosphere of the house should be kept quite moist, as the plants will make a better growth, and the "red spider " can be more easily held in check. When the plants are in fruit, the atmosphere must be dryer, but it is well, after pollinating, to sprinkle the walks and tables.

In watering, special care must be exercised. An abundance of water should be given ; still, the soil must not be kept saturated. A general rule would be to give eighteen-inch boxes a thorough watering every second day; or in dark weather every third day. The necessity of thoroughness in watering is emphasized, for trouble is frequently given by simply sprinkling the surface. The soil looks moist, but down where the roots are it may be perfectly dry, and as soon, as the sun shines brightly, the plants wilt. This is a check which should never be permitted.

An advantage of watering only once in two or three days during the fruiting season, is the increased probability of successful pollination. The best time to pollinate ("fertilize"), is about noon on bright days. Previous to this time, the ventilators may be opened somewhat and the atmosphere dried by sun and artificial heat. The operation consists simply in giving each plant two or three sharp taps with a padded stick. It is quickly done, and is usually very satisfactory.

There are several varieties which do well under glass.