The continuous rams have still kept work on land almost at a standstill; and we have to repeat that every dry hour should be taken advantage of. Ground on which Broccoli and other winter crops have grown, will now be getting vacant, and it should be manured, trenched, or dug without delay. We have been obliged to dig up plots without manure, as wheeling has been impracticable. Applications of manure-water and mulching may have to do instead, should a dry spring and summer be experienced. Peas may now be sown in boxes under protection, or in the open ground; but mice will have to be looked after. Earlier sowings, whether they are to remain under glass or be planted out, should not be allowed to draw up weakly for want of air and light. Broad Beans will also require attention in a similar manner. When sowing Peas on wet land, it is well to keep them above the level of the surrounding soil, and cover them over in ridges; those coming through, may have old Mushroom-manure, leaf-mould, or dry soil put over them. If frost should set in, crops nearly finished may have the remains lifted and placed closely together, so that space may be turned up to the action of the weather.

A bed of early Horn Carrots may be sown in a warm position, using light sandy soil on the surface; they will succeed those in frames. Plant more Potatoes where they can be protected. Sow Radishes between the rows, which will be used up before they are in the way of the Potatoes. Onions and Parsnips may be sown by the end of the month, should the land be in nice "mealy" condition. We still hold to the system of sowing.

Onions - in fact, everything else - in drills; and have a great objection to sowing thickly, except on very poor soil. But no plant can do well when crowded in either rows or beds. Cauliflowers in frames may now be potted and kept growing under protection, till fit for planting out; those under handlights will require plenty of air, keeping the surface well stirred. Stir all surfaces among growing crops, such as Cabbage, Lettuce, etc, with prong, where it is practicable. Look over roots in store when time can be spared, taking all decaying ones away. Get plenty of Pea and other stakes ready. Horse-Radish, Seakale, and Rhubarb, may all be planted; they all will do well in deeply-worked soil, well manured. Pieces of the two former, about 6 inches long, may be placed in rows; plenty of room must be allowed for the luxuriant foliage. Where Rhubarb has been forced, it should not be turned out, as many of the crowns would probably rot, even though protected. To increase the stock, single crowns may be divided, and potted or placed in boxes of soil; and when there is no danger from frost, the plants can be planted out in good ground. Keep up supplies of Rhubarb by taking in a few roots weekly till it is growing in the open ground.

Seakale, Asparagus, and Chicory, may also be taken in as required. Keep up supplies of Tarragon, Mint, Sorrel, etc, by taking a few roots in weekly. Keep them cool and airy when they are fit for use. Mushroom-beds should be made as required: smaller beds made frequently are generally more serviceable than when large beds are made at long intervals. French Beans should now be getting plentiful. Sowings made frequently, keep up regular supplies. When heated pits can be spared for planting them out they do much better, and much labour and annoyance with red-spider is saved. When those in pots are fruiting, they may be well supplied with clear manure-water. If surfacing is given, let it be rich and open material. Where forcing of vegetables is done under glass, much will be gained by shutting up early, harvesting sun-heat. A continuous close stagnant atmosphere is a great evil. Sow a pinch of Celery; but uneven temperatures, dryness, or drenchings of cold water, will cause "bolting'" to seed. M. T.