The vegetable garden will now be assuming a furnished appearance, and while crops are growing vigorously, weeds will at the same time be making a struggle for their development, and if they are to be successfully kept down, they must be attacked with the hoe while in their early stage of growth. The showery weather (while we write) has made the ground so saturated, that hand-weeding is the only means of keeping crops clear of weeds. Seeding should be prevented if possible, as it tends greatly to increase the work for years to come; while the hoe is destroying weeds, it is doing much to promote free growth in the vegetable crops. The pronged hoe and steel fork may also be used with great advantage. Good soakings of water may be necessary if weather should be dry; mulchings for Peas, Beans, etc., are of much service, especially on light soils. After the surface dries sufficiently, the hoe should be used to prevent cracking; the loose soil acts as a mulching. Cold drib-blings of water are an evil which cannot be too strongly denounced. Proceed with the planting of all the Brassica tribe of plants as they become large enough. Plants drawn up before they are planted seldom do "well. Sturdy vigorous plants are always to be preferred.

Crowding of winter crops cannot be reasonably expected to give good returns. Frost and damp are sure to make great havoc if the winter should be severe. Draw neat drills for the plants; when planting is done the soil should be pressed gently to the roots instead of wedging in the collars only. We find this practice is still common with the non-experienced. Keep each kind of crops by itself as much as possible, so that good breadths can be trenched, or dug up when the crop is taken off. Avoid the too common system of cutting up the ground with paths across plots, which (though a very old system), wastes ground for no purpose. Dustings of lime and small coal-ashes may be required to keep slugs and grubs in check. Puddling the roots with cow-manure, soot, and soil well mixed, does much to keep vermin off, and helps the plants to withstand drought. Manure-water may now help Cauliflower to finish off fine heads. Wal-cheren Broccoli may be sown for a late supply. Granger's early Broccoli may he sown for a chance late crop. Sow Peas twice in the month; an early kind for last sowing may be most suitable. Sow crops of French Beaus, Scarlet Runners, and Broad Beans. Top the latter when they come into flower. Stake Peas and Runners as soon as they are 4 to 6 inches above ground.

These may be advantageously grown by keeping them dwarf, topping back the runners. Sow and plant full crops of Lettuces in shady positions and on Celery ridges: tie up Lettuce to blanch if necessary. Sow Endive in small portions, as the plants often run to seed, till later in the season. Sow full crops of Turnips, Coleworts, Radishes, Spinach, small Salad of every kind. Plant out Parsley, and sow a good breadth to stand the winter. The leaves are much finer when the plants are left about 8 inches or more apart; edgings to other crops may be formed with Parsley to economise space. All crops must be thinned as they require it; when left to become crowded they are much injured. Dustings of soot and a little guano among Onions in showery weather will do much to help them. Tomatoes may now be planted out in open spaces on walls; a little mulching may be given, and abundance of water when necessary. When crops are heavy the plants may be greatly benefited by good soakings of manure-water. In districts where they do well without the aid of a wall, etc, stakes must be given and stopping had recourse to. All useless laterals must be taken off. Prepare a ridge for Cucumbers and Ghirkins; a little litter mixed with mowings of grass and leaves answer well.

First throw the soil right and left, making a bed of four feet or more, place the manure in the space and return the soil; a portion of good stuff may be given to start the plants into free growth. Vegetable marrows may require similar treatment. They are the better of hand-lights or plant-protectors placed over them, to give them a start into free growth. Where Chi-lies and Capsicums are of good size, they may be planted in a favourable position under a wall, but glass protection brings them on more safely. Asparagus lately planted may be helped by manure-water; sprinklings of salt will help bearing beds, and destroy weeds. Seakale may be benefited by application of salt. Get all ridges manured ready for Celery without delay. Plant out Cardoons when they are fit. They may be treated like Celery, with plenty of manure and water. M. T.