Sow for early crops in the same way as recommended for Cucumbers, using a heavier loam. If intended for being grown in the old-fashioned way, in pits without trellises, stop the young plants as soon as the rough leaves are expanded; but if to be trained to wires like Cucumbers, which is the best way, do not stop them.

Melon Forcing #1

Plant out in a heavier and less rich soil than recommended for Cucumbers. Train them in the very same way, and they will show fruit on the second growth. Grow them with less water than is required for Cucumbers, or they will be more subject to make wood, and be more shy in flowering than is desirable. Keep the temperature the same as for Cucumbers, and air regularly to prevent a thin development of foliage and weak flowers. Sow for succession crops.

Melon Forcing #2

Those planted last month will be growing freely now. Train the plants up the wires without stopping them till within 15 inches of the top. Water sparingly at the roots, and supply only a moderate amount of moisture to the air. The night temperature should not range more than 70°. Give air on all favourable opportunities. To grow Melons in spring with a very high temperature, and much moisture and little air, ruins them, by causing them to make weak growths with thin sickly foliage. Plant out succession crops as previously directed, and sow more seed both at the beginning and end of the month.

Melon Forcing #3

Carefully impregnate the fruit-blossoms about the middle of fine days, and stop the fruit-bearing growths one joint beyond the fruit. Till a full crop be set keep the air drier, give more air, and less water at the root. After a sufficient number of fruit are set and begun to swell, give a heavy root-watering and increase the air moisture again; and unless where there are good Melon-pits with the plants trained to trellises, like Vines, do not syringe overhead. With superior appliances the syringe may be used on fine afternoons, but not till after the fruit are as large as hens' eggs. Range the temperature from 70° to 75° at night. Plant out succession crops, and sow approved sorts for later crops.

Melon Forcing #4

Sow and plant out for succession crops both at the beginning and end of the month. Attend carefully to the tying and stopping of those planted in April, and impregnate the blooms, performing the operation in the middle of the day. The depth of soil for Melons should now be more than for early crops, as it is very undesirable to be obliged to water often when the fruit is swelling. It frequently causes the fruit to burst. A greater depth of soil prevents the crop from suffering without being so copiously supplied with water; and a few heavy waterings enables them to perfect their crop, especially if the surface of. the bed be mulched. As soon as the fruit begins to ripen give more air, and no more water at the root.

Melon Forcing #5

Plant out a quantity for August supply. Give them a good depth of soil; a heavy loam with a very little old cow-manure mixed with it is best, especially after this season. Make the bed of soil firm, but not too smooth on the surface, or it will become caked, and not easily penetrated with water when it is applied. If planted to be trained to the roof of the pit or house, see former directions as to the mode of training and stopping. If planted in an ordinary hot-bed frame, plant two plants in the centre of each light, and train three shoots from each plant at regular distances over the surface. Stop them when they reach within 8 or 9 inches of the side of the frame, and the lateral growths will show fruit. Stop the laterals one joint beyond the fruit, and avoid overcrowding with wood and foliage. Sprinkle advancing crops on fine afternoons at shutting - up time, except where the fruit are setting. Keep those that are ripening dry, and give plenty of air, so as to get the fruit as high-flavoured as possible.

Sow at the beginning and end of the months for successional and late crops.

Melon Forcing #6

See last month's directions respecting ripening crops, and former calendars as to the training and stopping of growing plants. Melons, especially those now swelling their fruit, require much more water than is good for them when the days are shorter, and the sun less powerful; but at the same time avoid frequent dribblets, and give a few thorough soakings instead. Keep the surface of the soil fresh, and prevent its cracking - or fill up the cracks, should they occur, with fine soil. A final watering should be given before the fruit begins to ripen, putting a thin layer of Mushroom-dung over the surface of the bed. Remove all superfluous growths, and slightly syringe the foliage on fine afternoons up till the time the fruit begins to ripen, then keep the house or pit dry, give more air, and expose the fruit to the sun. Plant out for a late crop about the middle of the month. Melons may be planted later, and ripened late in autumn, but they are seldom much worth, and it is not generally done.

Melon Forcing #7

Attend to the impregnation of late crops, and avoid overcrowding with shoots and foliage. Give those swelling off full crops occasional heavy waterings with manure-water. If grown in houses on trellises, cover the surface of the bed with a coating of rotten manure 1 inch or so in thickness. Expose ripening fruit fully to the sun, and to a circulation of warm air.