By performing the operation in this way, we are of opinion that the graft is firmer and more secure from accident, while there is a greater surface to form a union, so that when once a union is formed it is stronger and better than upon his principles. In the next place, M'Intosk, in his 'Book of the Garden,' vol. ii. page 330, gives a drawing of his method, where we consider he makes the same mistake as Lindley in neglecting a top bud upon his stock, while he approaches very near our idea regarding the making of the tongue and fixing it upon the stock. It will therefore be noticed that we have adopted something from each of them, which, when put into execution, differs from them all.

Having spoken thus fully of the grafting on the Quince stock, it is only necessary to say that, in grafting upon the Pear, the mechanical operation is identical in so far as the graft and stock are concerned, but that no "earthing-up" is necessary, as, the Pear being a more natural stock for the Pear, the union is not nearly so long in forming. "Earthing-up," however, would not be the least injurious even with the Pear stock, if from its height it was not impracticable, as it would be a support and guard against the influence of strong winds.

Unless the stock and scion have been all the stronger, there will only be one good strong shoot made the first year, which, if intended for a wall-tree, ought to be cut back to within three eyes at the pruning season. If, however, the stock used is a Quince, it ought to be cut over about 1 foot from the ground, and the three top eyes encouraged to grow the following summer. These will, in all probability, all push in spring, and ought to be trained upon a trellis, so as to give them the set necessary for the wall. Let all three branches be trained in nearly an upright position, so that thereby the flow of sap may be more equalised and the young tree better balanced, as more of the future symmetry and general appearance of the tree depend more upon the first two or three years' management than all the after-training of future years. It will, however, entirely depend upon what form of training is to be followed, in order to determine upon the mode of pruning to be adopted the second year. We purpose making reference to the various modes in general use, but preferring as we do the fan to all other styles for both Pear and Apple - as being the prettiest, the quickest to fill a given space, and as easy to put into practice as any of them - we shall take it first.

When the pruning season comes round again, our practice is to cut the centre branch back to within three buds of its base, leaving the two side-branches from 1 foot to 18 inches in length, according to their strength; and when we make our cut, we invariably leave the top bud in the front of the branch, while the second bud, which we expect to form a branch also, is left upon the upper side. Our reason for so doing is, that when the branch, which we are now forming, comes to take its place as the horizontal or bottom branch of the fan, it may have fewer crooks, and appear neater than if cut in any other way. And further, by leaving the second bud upon the upper part of the branch, it starts and grows in almost the exact position it will require to take on the tree, so that, when the pruning season comes the following year, it may be easily placed in its position without the slightest twisting or injury to its cellular tissue. In nailing these two branches to the wall, it will be to their advantage to be laid in at an angle of about 45°, so that they may receive all the encouragement possible to enable them to make good strong wood for the following season.

During summer, if the tree is in robust health, it will send up three shoots from the centre branch and two from each of the two side-branches, thereby giving a nicely-formed young tree of seven branches. In the winter of this year we recommend such a tree to be removed to its permanent position upon the wall; but if it is desired to keep it another year where it is, it ought to receive a good root-pruning to induce the formation of fibrous roots, which alone are the feeding-roots, to check those which are inclined to go downwards, as well as to prevent rambling, and induce the formation of fruit-buds. When the tree is placed in its permanent position, it will be a benefit to it if a few inches of rough stable-dung be placed over the roots to prevent the action of hard frost upon them, as well as prevent evaporation, if hot parching weather should set in before the tree is properly established. Most people do so by placing it upon the surface; we, however, prefer placing it a few inches above the roots, and cover this over with an inch or two of soil, which answers the purpose equally well, and at the same time looks more tidy and cleanly. The soil best suited for the Pear will be spoken of at the end of this chapter, when treating of the formation of borders.

When pruning at this time, we cut the centre shoot back to within 6 inches of its base, leaving the two side ones about 1 or 1 1/2 feet, cutting upon the same principles as last year, and training them at about 45° angle. The under branches are laid down to about 25°; nothing is taken from the point of them, but the side-shoots upon them are cut back, just as we have cut the others. In the summer following, if young wood pushes more than is wanted, we pinch it back to about 2 inches in June, and again in August to about one eye from where its lateral pushed. In the following winter we cut the centre back to about the same as the previous year, bringing down the young wood to about the same angle as before, and lowering each previous year's wood to the place of its predecessor; so that, when the operation is finished, the under branches are horizontal, and in their permanent places. The tree will now be four years of age from the graft, and possessing thirteen branches, if we allow that the two under branches will not do more than make a leader for themselves after we stop cutting their points, which, in all probability, will be the case.

In training a fan-tree, our object is to get the wood as evenly dispersed all over the tree as possible, so that when the branches, by running at different angles, exceed 12 inches between each other, we cut so as to get a young branch to fill up the vacancy. We still continue the pruning as before, with regard to the centre and side shoots, until we have as many branches as will fill up the wall - never, however, topping any branch after it has reached its permanent position, unless the wood is either soft or watery or unripe, in which case we reduce the branch until we get good sound wood. The superfluous wood which is made in summer we pinch as before directed, and in winter cut back to about 1 inch, which is left, and will, in the course of time, form a fruit-bearing spur, if, in after-pruning, each shoot it may throw out is cut back to about one eye. Root-pruning we would earnestly recommend every second year, until the tree get into a good bearing condition, after which it may not require to be done again for five or six years.

By continuing, however, to root-prune at intervals of five or six years, the tree will keep more vigorous, bear better, and give more satisfaction than if left entirely undisturbed.

James M'Millan.

(To he continued).