Editors Horticulturist : - The model report of J. T. T. in last month's issue is the example for the following, except that I give my locality, which J. T. T. ought to have done. My vines are growing in the garden, and receive fair treatment; soil limestone.

Anna, - - Badly mildewed.

Brinckle, - No mildew.

Concord, - " "

Clara, - " "

Cassidy, - - Slightly mildewed.

Catawba, - - Mildewed and rotted badly.

Delaware, No mildew.

Diana, " "

Garrigues, - - Slightly mildewed.

Isabella, - Badly mildewed.

Louise, - - Slightly mildewed.

Northern Muscadine, No mildew.

Hartford Prolific, - " "

Rebecca, - - Slightly mildewed.

SegarBox, - Badly "

Secord's White, - No mildew.

Taylor, - - - Slightly mildewed, but dropped its fruit before maturity.

I have a number of vines in a fruit garden in the country; among them a large Isabella and Catawba that I laid down last fall and covered with several inches of soil, which did not mildew or rot. Can you account for this? The exposure of these is easterly, whereas my vines in town have a southern exposure, nearly all of them, but none were laid down.

Now for a brace of questions. What is the proper season to sow grass seed to produce a good sod, and what shall I sow 1 Would an application of gas lime be beneficial to fruit trees and grape vines? In what quantities should it be applied ! On the surface, or forked in? the lime having been exposed for several months. Would an application of gas lime benefit a vegetable garden, if the soil were loosely thrown up this fall, and the lime then spread on it, to be worked in, in the spring? Yours, J, W. M.

Lebanon, Penn., October 6,1862.

[We are delighted to have another model report. A vast amount of the most useful information can in this way be comprised within a very brief compass.

We shall be much gratified to have these models greatly multiplied. Our readers need have no fears of sending too many of them. J. T. T. did give his locality, but our printer unfortunately omitted it, and to that extent lessened the value of the report. His locality is Harlem, on the northern end of New York Island. Your report agrees substantially with what we have observed in many parts of New York and New Jersey. Every where the Catawba heads the list of "mildew and rot." The covering of your vines in the country will not sufficiently account for the absence of mildew and rot. The exposure and protection from cold winds would go far to explain it. We should be glad to hear more of the conditions under which these vines were grown. We presume your question about sod relates to the formation of a lawn. In our experience, we have found the early spring to be the best time for sowing the seed, the preparation of the ground having been mainly done in the preceding fall. We seldom sow any thing but Kentucky Blue Grass and White Clover; sometimes we add a little Red Top. If grass seed is sown in the fall, it should be done early, so as to give it a good start. If snow should be plenty, the young grass will go through the winter tolerably well, and make a fair sod.

It is well, however, in this case, to sow more seed at the end of winter, while the ground is still cracked from frost, and then roll it Gas lime will be beneficial to fruit trees and vines, but must be used sparingly, especially if fresh; say about twenty bushels to the acre, harrowed in. Your vegetable garden would be benefited if treated just as proposed. We should be pleased to hear from you often. - Ed].

Mr. Editor : - A subscriber would respectfully ask for a list of good pears, that when properly ripened exhibit the most beautiful appearance, say a clear yellow hue; and if added to this they possess a red cheek, so much the better. Pears, with beauty and size, though only of secondary flavor, will frequently command attention, when those of better flavor, but of a green or dull color, would be overlooked.

[In response to our Baltimore friend, we append a list of a dozen pears, possessing a good yellow hue, and often a red cheek. They are all good kinds, many of them ranking among the best, and mostly good growers and productive; yet they are hardly the dozen we should select for market purposes. The remark of our correspondent, however, that a handsome pear of secondary quality will generally sell better that one of first quality without an attractive exterior, is generally true; yet there are pears of good size and fair form, but of rather a dull color, that sell well and bring high prices, because of their great excellence. The public taste is becoming yearly so much more appreciative, that we deem it wisest to plant only the best and most productive kinds, without much reference to their color. The list called for is as follows: Bartlett, Tyson, Bergen, Golden Beurre of Bilboa, Beurre Clairgeau, Beurre Superfin, Lawrence, Buffum, Beurre de Montgeron, Onondaga, Osband's Summer, Pratt. - Ed].

P. S. Several subscribers interested in the culture of Evergreens, would be pleased with a list of about twenty varieties, of the newest and most distinct that are sufficiently hardy for this latitude.

Baltimore, Oct. 8,1862.

[It would not be easy to make out a list of twenty entirely new and distinct evergreens that are known to be sufficiently hardy to recommend. The following may be relied upon in your locality, some of them, however, not being what may be termed "new :" Cupressus Lawsoniana, Pinus Austriaca, P. Beuthamiana, P. ponderosa, P. Jeffreyi, P. Moritmia, P. Beadsleyi, Chamaecyparis thurifera, Thujopsis borealis, Abies lasciocarpa, A. clanbraziliensis, A. morinda, A. Pattonii, A. Menziesii, A. grand is, A. amabilis, A. Douglassii, Taxus Dovestoniana, Gepha-lotaxus Fortunii. To this list we will add the Golden Yew, and the following Arbor Vitae: Gigantica, Lobbii, Craigiana, Glauca, Menziesii, Hoveyi, Compacta, Aurea. - Ed].

Mr. Editor : - I am pleased to understand that we are not all included in the category of swindlers. I freely admit the justice of the remarks in your last number, and for one am ready to put my shoulder to the wheel to get the fraternity out of the mire. I have long been aware of the disgrace brought upon us by the misconduct of some nurserymen, and confess that I feel ashamed of the business when its operations have the names of * * * * and * * * associated with it. But there is one source of evil which, when understood, will relieve some of us from these severe charges. I mean the tree pedlers. These men buy up old and refluse nursery stock, and hawk it about the country as the products of our fruit cultivators. This stock, though often of good quality, becomes deteriorated by transportation and is often dead and worthless when delivered at the distance of hundreds, or perhaps thousands of miles. Again, pedlers take orders as from a celebrated nursery, and then purchase where they can get their stock the cheapest. This explanation seems to be called for, though I am anxious as any one else to brand the swindler in such plain characters that all may know and avoid him, and to that end, I approve the suggestions to form the protecting association.

Nurseryman.

[It is understood, of course, that the class of men referred to are only a small minority, and form the exceptions. There are no more respectable body of men in any business than our nurserymen; but it is none the less desirable that the bad should be known and weeded out. - Ed].

P. B. Mead, Esq. - Dear Sir; - I have a number of plants in my little garden, which have given me so much pleasure, and such a profusion of fine flowers all the past summer, that I do not wish to let them die, now that winter is coming on. I have not room in the house, and shall have to protect them in some other way.

A friend suggests that a "cold pit" would answer the purpose, but cannot tell me how such a contrivance is to be made. Having seen in the Horticulturist your very plain answers to questions of your correspondents, I have concluded to ask if you can enlighten me on the above subject Also, please tell me if such plants as Geraniums, Verbenas, Heliotropes, and Petunias can be safely wintered by such means. I am still very green in all matters pertaining to Horticulture, but hope to improve in that respect by becoming a diligent reader of your magazine.

A New Subscriber. New York, Oct. 18, 1862.

[It is easy to see that you are on "the royal road to learning," which is for all to travel who will, except royalty itself. A cold pit should be located in a place as much as possible sheltered from all northerly winds. It may be of any dimes, sions desired; let us suppose it to be six wide and twelve long. If you already have sashes, make the dimensions to suit them. It should be dug from three to six feet deep beneath the surface, according to the kind of plants to be wintered; Camellias, Roses, and other tall growing plants requiring more depth than Verbenas and the like. The frames should be twelve inches high in front and fifteen to eighteen at the back. The earth taken from the pit should be used to form an embankment around the frame, first putting next the boards a layer of straw. It requires an illustration as well as a minute description to make the whole thing plain, and in our next you shall have both. There are many others seeking the same kind of knowledge. The pit must be well covered in severe weather, and ventilated whenever it is pleasant.

Very little water will be needed. - ED].