This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
A tree without some fibrous roots that may be taken up with it, is certainly not worth much, but may sometimes be made a good tree by severe shortening in both the top and roots, and being planted in soil favorable to the production of roots. And this brings me to the question that I want to ask. Why will some soils produce more roots in proportion to the size of the tree, than other soils? A fact or two will not be out of place here, I think. Two years ago, I purchased some Norway Spruce that were grown upon light, sandy soil. They were from one to two feet high, had made a good growth the previous year, and, I supposed, were every way good trees; but on taking them up I found they had roots more like standard pear-trees than any thing else I can think of. They were almost destitute of fibrous roots. I planted part in the fall, and they nearly all died; the rest in spring, and they nearly all lived. They made a growth the summer following of three to six inches, and when planting time came again you might take a spade and go to any one of them, and cut down the length of it around the tree, say eighteen inches from it, and lift it out without losing off a pound of the soil; the roots were so woven together - so to speak - through the whole of it I think trees on the sandy soils along our lake shore, have fully one-third less root that those grown on the heavier soils more in the interior of the State. I refer to nursery trees generally.
There is also a difference in varieties in this respect in the same ground. In root-grafted apple-trees the difference is a very marked one; and the Rambo and Swaar may be taken as an example of those with least roots, while Bough and Golden Sweetings are among the best-rooted. If you will explain these things to me you will do me a great favor. Yours truly, Geo. W. Dean.
Welshfield Geauga County, 0.
[The above very suggestive letter was mislaid, or it would have appeared sooner. In regard to the form in which you put the question, we would remark, that a tree with a few roots of either kind is a most undesirable thing, and there is not much choice between them. If planted in a suitable soil, nature will at once begin to form roots, for feeding or for support, as the one or the other may be most needed. A good nurseryman should never send out a tree deficient in fibrous roots; for where these are duly present, there is never a lack of the other. In the case of the vine, there are two quite distinct methods of making " layers" the one producing scarcely any thing but long roots, and the other a good system of fibres; and it was between these we supposed Mr. Goodwin wished to choose, and we advised him accordingly. We have no knowledge of Mr. Berckmans having expressed the opinion you allude to; but of this we are convinced, that no tree can have a better support than that furnished by a good system of fibrous roots, which furnish a multitude of points of resistance.
Such a tree will seldom require a stake, except in a very exposed place; indeed, a stake is very often a palpable evidence of either bad planting or a bad plant, except as noted above. - Next, some soils produce more roots than others, simply because they are richer in carbonaceous matter. If you had planted a part of your Norway Spruces early in September, you would have lost as few as you did in the spring, and have had the same growth and masses of roots. Your case is an additional evidence that something more is needed than long roots for mechanical support. There is undoubtedly a difference between varieties of apple and other trees in regard to the quantity of roots they make, dependant chiefly upon their native vigor. In respect to root-grafted apples, the piece of root upon which they are grafted gradually dies, the graft throws out roots, and the tree is ultimately in the condition of one made from a cutting, dependant altogether upon its own system of roots: these roots will vary mainly according to the aptitude of each particular kind for this mode of propagation, though other and local causes may sometimes cooperate to produce the same results. This explanation, we think, sufficiently accounts for all your phenomena.
If not, let us know wherein. - Ed].
Mr. Editor, - Dear Sir, - Since you seem to take so much pleasure in answering the questions of the ladies, I will venture to ask two: 1st. Which is the best Strawberry for the garden? 2d. Which is the best Grape? I have only a small place, and think one kind of each is enough for me to grow, but I want the best. Will you please answer these questions for me? Respectfully yours, Mount Vernon, July 20th, 1861. Ann S.
[You are short and sweet, Ann - we mean the letter, of course. We are always ready to answer the questions of the ladies, provided they are not two personal. We don't exactly know what might happen in that case. The best Strawberry for the garden is Triomphe de Gand The best Grape is the Delaware. You do wisely in not planting many kinds, if your place is small; but we suspect you will want more by-and-by. - Ed].
 
Continue to: