P. B. Mead, Esq., - My Dear Sir: - In a garden here, with good aspect and under good cultivation, I have to make the following report on mildew on grapes, viz.;

Although both bunch and berry are small, yet the flavor is so fine in the Delaware that I put it ahead of all those in general cultivation.

The Asparagus beetle has made a finish of every thing about here. Beds all destroyed., Yours truly, J. T. T.

[The above is a model report in its way; brief, and to the point. We should be glad to have many more such. Your account of the Asparagus beetle agrees with those received from many different quarters. Nothing, we fear, but absolute and wholesale killing will subdue them. It was not till we called attention to the subject that many discovered that this pest had already begun its work of destruction on their Asparagus beds. - Ed].

GENTLEMEN, - Having built a house for the cultivation of peaches under glass, without artificial heat, I would trouble you for directions how to select and dispose of the trees. The house is like an ordinary lean-to cold grapery, length 40 feet, length of sash 12 feet, height of front wall 2 feet, of back wall 9 feet. The trees are to be planted and trained under the glass like vines in a grapery.

The question is, What should be the length of the trellis for each tree, supposing its height to be 12 feet, and which form of espalier, the fan-shaped or the square is to be preferred.

Of the two, three, or four trees to be admitted, I wish one to be a nectarine, and suppose the Stanwick or the Bed Roman, and the Monstrous of Douay, the Late Admirable and the Grosse Mignonne, to be the best varieties of the two fruits.

I have also some difficulties to refer to you, in the training and pruning of the Blackberry and the Raspberry. Some weeks since I pinched the tops of the former, and some of them now have side brandies 3 or 4 feet in length, and upon these, again, laterals. I wish to know what treatment these different parts should receive at the fall and winter pruning, and how much of this pruning may he anticipated by frequent summer pinching or pruning to prevent the bushes from becoming a tangled mass of briers; what number of canes should be left to each; stool, and, if trellises are preferable to stools, what should be the disposition of the canes along the trellis, and the distance between each two of the former. Also, in regard to the Raspberry; often all the strong canes of a stool are divided from near the ground upward into several strong branches; are such canes as good as single ones, and how are they to be managed? Have I done violence to my Raspberry vines in thinning out this summer the canes to 4 or 5, in shortening the other, and cutting the small laterals to two eyes.

The past spring I planted a Honey Locust hedge, setting the plants thus . two to every foot in length of hedge. Should they not be thinned out to ore plant to every 2 feet of hedge? The plants having already made a growth of from 1 to 2 feet in height, when and how much should they be pruned?

In a former number you advised me to plant Delaware grape vines 4 feet apart. I planted last spring 15 or 20 of them as you directed, and now await directions how to cover the trellises, expecting to cut them back to three eyes this fell, and the next, if necessary. The laterals have been kept pinched to one new leaf as you direct, and the canes are, most of them, from 4 to 6 feet high, and 1/4 inch in thickness; the young shoots of those which are now the highest, having been ail cut down by the frost of the 25th of May. The leaves, however, are more or less affected as this Isabella which I inclose. Is it mildew?

The inclosed leaf of a cucumber tree is a specimen showing the blight which has covered the foliage of a tree on the lawn, and attracted an army of flies. The branches also are black, and covered with tubercles, which seem to be formed by an insect called by some the coccus. Is there any remedy for this but to destroy the tree, or leave perhaps a young sucker in hope of its making a thrifty growth!

Hoping to receive. soon a reply to this rather formidable list of questions, I remain, very respectfully, your obedient servant, A Subscriber.

Owego, August 26, 1862.

[The list is rather formidable to be answered all at once; but we do so cheerfully, but necessarily briefly. The trellis for your trees should be continuous, reaching the whole length of the house, and some three feet from the glass; not more than four. We like the fan-shaped espalier better than the square. In such a house, however, we should plant the trees three feet apart, and grow them in what the French call the cordon oblique form. The Stanwick is the best Nectarine you can plant. The Red Roman is very fine, and so is the Elruge for your purpose. Your peaches are excellent, but be sure you get them true to name, which is not easy. Topping Blackberries is a good practice, but you either topped yours just a little too soon, or probably pinched the ends of the branches. The topping is done to produce strong side branches, but we do not want laterals on these. The side branches must be cut-in to about three feet, if very strong; if not, to two feet, or even one, according to their condition. If there are laterals on the side branches, cut them in to two buds. Leave three canes to each stool, unless the stools are very wide apart, in which case four may be left. This will constitute your fall or winter pruning. The old canes will all be removed, of coarse.

The plants should stand from three to four feet apart in the rows; not less than three. The Blackberry needs no summer pruning, except pinching off the top of the leading shoot. A trellis is no doubt the best arrangement for Blackberries. The three shoots should be tied out fan-fashion. If a trellis is not used, tie out the shoots to poles. Raspberries, when growing strongly, will often throw out side shoots; and there is no objection to this, provided they are strong, for the quantity of fruit is thus increased. These side shoots, at the winter pruning, should be cut in to from six to twelve inches, according to their strength. For neatness, we prefer a single stout cane. You did perfectly right in reducing the number of canes; four or five are quite enough to leave; the others should be cut entirely out, not shortened in. This is the only summer pruning the Raspberry needs. The distance at which you should leave your Locust plants will depend upon the height you wish to give the hedge. You may in any event thin them out to the distance proposed. Cut them down next spring to about four inches. We are glad to hear that you planted the Delaware, as we suggested. Cutting back to three eyes will be your pruning for this fall.