Dear Editor:- I wish that by a word of mine I could raise an army of amateurs that would infuse some additional vigor and emulation into the cultivation of the noblest of our autumnal glories, the Dahlia. I find the principal objection to a more general cultivation is, "Oh! too much trouble and difficulty !" Now in my floral vocabulary there are no such words, and it is with the view of dissipating this erroneous impression, as well as to induce others to take hold of the delightful pastime, that I offer you my system of culture, which is acknowledged to be successful; and instead of "trouble and difficulty," I guarantee to all who will follow it not only equal success, but the purest and most positive pleasure. That a certain amount of labor and attention must be bestowed is undeniable, but little more than is necessary to most of our floral pets when properly cultivated.

Amateurs, who have space only to grow six, twelve, or twenty-four plants, may, by devoting an hour morning and evening to their requirements, do all for them that is necessary to insure a good bloom. Others, with more time at their disposal, and who enter con amove into all the minutiae of the thing, must necessarily reap a corresponding advantage - a larger amount of gratification.

As we may in vain look for a good or true bloom from a weak, sickly plant, our main object, during the three months after planting, must be to produce strong, healthy, robust plants, to insure which, our first attention must be turned to the preparation of the ground.

Select an airy situation, away from large trees, and as much as possible a dead level; trench it a couple of spades deep - more, if you take pleasure in it, as I do, my Dahlia ground being three spades deep; keep all the good soil on the top, the subsoil being merely opened up and allowed to remain in its place, forming a large receptacle or reservoir for the rains and waterings the plants may receive. Such preparation will save many waterings which otherwise would be necessary, and where, perhaps, water might be scarce. As an instance of its great advantage, last season we had a two months' spell of dry weather - not a shower to wet the surface of the ground; notwithstanding, my plants grew vigorously without once being watered, and without showing the least indication of suffering during the entire drought, all they had being an occasional syringing overhead to check the red spider and thrip, which warm and dry weather is certain to produce, and which must be checked to insure healthy plants. Besides, when we consider the fact that water constitutes upwards of 70 per cent. of the substance of the plant when in a healthy growing state, we at once perceive not only the advantage, but the necessity for deep trenching.

This said trenching, which is the heaviest portion of the whole process, should be done in the fall of the year, leaving it as rough and open as possible to the action of the frost. If not done then, begin operations the moment the ground is workable in spring, leaving it in said rough, open condition till it is wanted in May.

In the meantime, prepare a sufficient quantity of manure, as much as will cover the entire surface three or four inches deep; the older you can get it the better. Cow-manure is preferable to horse, it being of a cooler nature; but as it can not always be had pure when wanted, we must take what we can get, mixed with horse; or horse alone, if sufficiently decomposed, will do well enough in the absence of better, as a foundation to work upon. My muck-pit, before the season is over, is pretty well filled with all the offal and refuse of the house and garden I can scrape together; nothing is lost or thrown away, but all returned again to the ground whence it came. In the fall, 1 get a few loads of cow-manure if i can, horse when I can not, and in November make up a heap alternately of a layer from the muck-pit and a layer of manure, allowing it to remain so all winter. In early spring it is chopped down and turned over, thoroughly intermixing it, and again formed into a heap. In six weeks the same process is repeated, when, by the time it is wanted for the Dahlias - about the middle of May - it is in prime condition; much of it corn, dahlia, and hollyhock stalks, being but half decomposed, not only tends to keep the soil free, but we can give the Dahlia nothing that its roots will more lovingly cling to and feed upon.

We will now leave nature to perform her portion of duty to the ground and manure heap, while we are looking alter the roots. During the last week in April, when there is no longer any likelihood of frost, 1 dig a shallow trench in any bit of ground not immediately wanted, and place the roots in it closely together, working the soil carefully in among the tubers until the crowns are covered about half an inch. In about a fortnight or three weeks the shoots begin to appear, and when three or four inches long, I lift the roots, and carefully separate the shoots, leaving a small portion of the tuber to each when it is possible. They are then put into small-sized pots, no larger than will freely admit the portion of bulb attached, using a mixture of leaf mold and road sand, half and half passed through a sieve. (Stick a tally with the name into each pot; give a thorough watering (use rain water) with a fine rose, and when the foliage is dry, place them in a cold frame; shade from the sun, and keep air from them two or three days; then give them air daily, by raising the upper end of the sash a couple of inches, closing it again at sundown. Keep a good look out for thrips, which will find their way in and do damage, if not destroyed.

Should the weather be warm and dry, and evaporation consequently considerable, give the foliage a gentle sprinkling. Examine daily the soil in the pots, and water those only that require it, guarding against too much, which would certainly damp them off at this stage of their existence. Morning is the best time for this application of the watering-pot, fortifying them against the heat of the day, and,with a current of air playing gently among them, they are in fine condition for closing up again at night. In dull, dark weather, give plenty of air, and, should a moderate shower come up, let them have the benefit of it. In ten or twelve days they should be pretty well rooted, and ready for change of quarters. Examine each pot, by placing one hand over the soil, allowing the stem of the plant to go between your fingers; turn the pot upside down, give it a tap on the side of the frame, when the ball will rest on your hand exposed to view; if the routs are through the soil, " all's right;" no more nursing is required; return it to its pot, and place it where it can only get the morning sun for a few days, watering it well; after which it may be exposed to sun and weather as they may come.

It is ready for planting out.

Such is my amateur method of making young plants; and I seldom lose one, particularly since 1 have used " frigi domo" as a shading material. It is a thin, soft substance, like flannel, composed of hair and wool, an excellent non-conductor, preserving a cooler and mure equal temperature than I have before obtained with mats or muslin, and admitting a soft, agreeable light.

While the plants are rooting and hardening off, let us return to the Dahlia ground, which we left in a rough condition. Level it down, and point in the quantity of manure already mentioned, mixing it well with the soil. Let me again impress the advantage of working the ground to a perfect level, that the rains and waterings may run into and not off it, and that the roots all around may enjoy equal advantage.

Divide into beds four feet wide, allowing a pathway of sixteen or eighteen inches; then along the middle of the bed drive firmly into the ground centre-stakes live feet apart, close to each of which plant a Dahlia, any time from the 20th - not sooner - of May to the middle of June. A point of great importance is, from now to the end of the chapter, to be strictly attended to. After the completion of the beds, never allow a foot to be placed upon them; let the driving of the stakes and planting bo dune from the pathway, making a long arm; nothing being more detrimental to success than an undue pressure on the roots. To facilitate operations, place a brick in the centre of the bed between each Dahlia as a stepping-stone, nothing more being necessary for free and easy movement among the plants, which will soon grow to within easy reach.

For the benefit of beginners who desire to purchase young plants, I give you a list of a few of the older varieties - but nothing the worse for that - which I can with confidence recommend, having proved them, as well as many other names which are at your service, to be well adapted to this climate, and may be had from any importing nurseryman at a moderate charge.

Triomphe de Roubaix, buff, white tip; large and fine. Dr. Bois Duval, scarlet; a splendid flower. Sir H. Havelock, brilliant scarlet; best of its color. Lady Popham, white, lavender edge; most exquisite. Baron Alderson, scarlet, white tip; large and splendid. Grand Duke, deep lilac; very fine. Mrs. Edwards, lilac; very symmetrical and constant. Prince Albert, white, purple edge; constant and good. Lollipop, salmon buff; splendid form. King of Yellows, clear yellow, and very constant. Miss B. Coutts, fawn; fine form and substance. Dr. Gully, yellow, crimson tip; fine. Imperatrice Eugenie, pearly white, crimson tip; extra extra. Lady Paxton, red, drab tip; extra form and substance. Cherub, brilliant orange; a gem. Empress, blush white; delicate and fine. The Nigger, very dark; constant. Preeminent, dark plum; rich and very fine. Anne Boleyn, white; a noble flower. Duchess of Wellington, creamy white; extra double. Lord Bath, dark maroon; fine form. Ruby Queen, bright ruby; fine form. Miss Caroline, white, laced with purple; good and constant. Princess Wagram, orange; very desirable.

Colonel Wyndham, dark red; first-rate.

To those who wish to add to their collection newer varieties, 1 can equally recommend the following:

Madame Alboni, lilac, tipped with white; extra fine. Chairman, pale orange buff; first class flower. Lilac Queen; finest of its class Marchioness of Aylesbury, white, purple edge; very fine. Sir C. Campbell, dark maroon; large and very fine. Daughter of the Morning, mauve; a perfect gem. Pandora, claret, bronze tip; large, constant, and fine. Mrs. Bailhache, pure peach; extra form and substance. Dandy, white, striped with rose; original and fine. Kean, crimson, tipped with white; extra fine. Hon. Mrs. Trotter, white, with picotee edge; extra fine. Lady Mild may, pure lilac; very good. Sir Joseph Paxton, golden yellow, first class.

[The above article, from one of the most accomplished and successful amateurs in the country, we welcome with peculiar gratification. The question has often been asked, "How does Mr. Richardson grow such Dahlias?" and as this article is to be continued, our readers will be put in possession of all the details. - Ed].