Messrs. Editors: I am about to plant a vineyard, and have been reading authorities for information as to the depth at which the roots should be planted, but can not find any definite instructions. Can you enlighten me? My soil is a clay, resting on a shoal rock, which in many places crops out within eighteen inches of the surface.

Yours, etc., W. B.

Avow, O., March 7, 1867.

[We do not know that we can enlighten our inquirer, but we will cheerfully give him our views, and for a better understanding of the subject will briefly recapitulate some practices and their results. Our earliest vineyards, of any extent, were those planted by Germans, who came to us impressed with the belief that only hillsides exposed to the south were suited for vine-growing, and that the best vineyards could only be produced from the planting of long cuttings (each with a bit of old wood attached, and having three buds or about two feet long of new wood), in the place where the vine was permanently to stand. All the ground also was to be thoroughly trenched three feet deep; and as the vines grew, every surface root was to be cut away, leaving only the lower roots to feed the vine. These practices have been, and we believe are yet the rule about Cincinnati and with some growers in Missouri; and cultivators who consider it erroneous to plant a tree deep or dig deep holes for the same, yet commend the planting of grapevines at a depth of eight or ten inches above the upper root. In our belief this is wrong; we think it contrary to the natural action of the plant, which, if left to itself, will be found with the larger portion of its roots near the surface.

One, two, or more strong, vigorous roots corresponding with what, if left to itself, are the main vines or body of the plant, will be found running down deep into the earth; but the main support of the plant is obtained from the surface roots lying, say, at a depth of four to five or six inches. In our study of vegetable life, we have come to believe that warmth and air are as essential to the roots as the branches, and that a healthy plant can not be grown where the surface roots are destroyed and it be compelled to seek support from roots beyond the influence of and at a corre-. sponding temperature with the atmosphere in which the foliage is existing. From this our inquirer can see that we think deep planting and destroying of surface roots has something to do with the diseases of vines around Cincinnati and elsewhere that it is practiced, and we add to this our theory and belief, that surface roots are essential to the health of the vine, because observation of many years has shown us vineyards, on level lands, with roots left nearly in their natural way, growing healthy and producing good crops of fruit.]

Messrs. Editors: Please name three standard pears for profitable market-growing - one early, one late, and one winter.

F. Strong, Ohio.

[As an early and profitable market sort, or pear root, we name Clapp's Favorite; for the medium time of ripening take Beurre d'Anjou; and for winter, Josephine de Malines. These are all hardy, healthy, moderately rapid growers, productive, and as a rule the fruit is of good, salable market size, even and regular, and of a quality that fits them for the dessert table.]

Prolonla., Norfolk County, Va., Feb. 8, 1867.

Messrs. Editors: My attention to the article on Strawberry Growing, in your February number, induces me to inform you of a result in my garden this last season.

I have a berry sent to me from Horn-castle, England, and invoiced the Empress Eugenie, but it so much resembles the Trollop's Victoria that I think it one and the same thing. At any rate, it beats all strawberries I ever tried, and I have had every new variety that has been offered to the public as something wonderful.

I have, by correct measurement, one quarter of an acre in this kind of strawberry, which were planted six years ago where they now stand, and have been so very productive and so profitable for the last three years, that last season I kept a correct account of the proceeds, viz., 500 quarts strawberries sold to a huckster in the city of Norfolk, who resold them in New York, $500. Cost of picking, transportation, etc., $50; net proceeds $450. Amount consumed by my family of twelve persons during the season, no account kept, and we did not stint ourselves.

I will say nothing as to size, only that I grow the Agriculturist, which makes a beautiful berry, but not consistent with description as to size, while the Empress Eugenie is larger in size and more productive than it. Now, sir, you say that, as a rule, these great yields do not hold good. Doctors will differ, and I have to say it wilt hold good, all things considered. For instance, one acre of strawberries properly attended will yield five times as much profit for the same labor that an acre improperly cultivated will do.

Of all the fruits I ever cultivated, the strawberry gives larger returns for kind treatment than any other.

I would like to hear what you have to Bay relative to a strawberry patch six years old, yielding as mine does, and which has stood this hard winter, and now that the snow has left us, is in vigorous growth, and with fair prospects of making its seventh year as profitable as the last one. Yours, most respectfully,

F. W. Lemosey.

[As our correspondent says,"doctors will differ," and while he thinks he has made a case against our assertion, that large yields and high prices can not be taken as the rule of profit in fruit culture, we do not so consider it. We are much obliged for his record, and trust he will again keep one of the coming season, and report to us; but we don't think the yield he records a large one, while the price at which the fruit was sold certainly is much above the average rule of New York markets. Without referring to published statements, we take our own practical record, and looking back on varieties, their yields, etc., find that in 1847 we gathered and sold from one fourth acre 1,347 quarts, besides what were used in a family of ten grown persons, among them workmen and children who had permission to go upon the ground and eat when they pleased. In 1848, however, the same ground only gave 615 quarts for sale.]

Dahlias for early flowering may now be potted, or otherwise placed for heat and growth in the green-house or frame. Plants started now will give flowers in July, but those who desire to grow superior blooms will keep the tubers back a month or two. Some of the best blooms we ever saw were grown on plants not started until the middle of June.

Japan Lilies should be got into the ground as soon as possible, and so also gladiolus in some localities and soils; but where there is prospect of frost into the middle of May, it is better to delay planting the latter until the last of the month.

Herbaceous Peonies and plants may yet be divided and planted, and the tree peonies increased by grafting on the roots of the herbaceous sorts.

All beds or borders for flowering plants, roses, etc., should be made deep and rich with soil. Always obtain as much fresh loam as possible, and add to it well-rotted animal manures, but not so liberally as to make it what is termed "fat" or soggy.

Get the cultivator and light plow going among your vineyards, and fruit orchards, and gardens as soon as the ground will answer. Don't work clay land while it is wet. Plow very shallow next the bodies or main stems of trees and vines, going deeper as you work from them.

If you have neglected to prune back your hardy roses, do it now, cutting the hybrid perpetuals close to the ground, and the mosses down one half. Also, if a tree has escaped its due washing, and has upon it coccus - little white spots - insects, or bits of moss, etc., get some strong soapsuds, or weak lye, or potash water, and wash it all over before the buds push.

Tuberoses and Amaryllises should be potted and placed where they will get a gentle heat to bring them forward for planting out in open ground, and give early flowers.

Annuals of many sorts should be sown now in pots or a gentle hot-bed frame, for transplanting, and thus hastening the early blooms of the flower garden. In some sections they can be sown at once in the open ground.

Spring budding with the peach, magnolia, etc., may be performed successfully this month. Cut the buds some days, say a week or so, in advance of setting, and keep them in a cool place, letting the tree get a little advance of the cion or bud.

Chrysanthemums may be divided and replanted now, and whenever any cuttings are ready, propagated therefrom.

Fuchsias should now be repotted, and headed in pretty severely. It will give them more vigorous growth, and cause them to form a better shape.

Vineyard vines should now be tied neatly to the wires or stakes, and as the buds break, watched carefully to see if they do so evenly. Should the end buds swell strongly, while the middle buds remain dormant, bend the cane over in the form of an arch, and tying keep it there until all the buds have burst forth alike. In some sections where we are read, the buds around the crown or base will now require watching, and all that start over and above the number wanted to form canes another year should be at once rubbed out.

Walks and Roads require considerable care at this season to keep them smooth and level. Bake and roll frequently, for if now neglected it will require weeks to bring them again into good order; besides, a neglected walk or road always looks as though the gardener or owner had planned more than he could well accomplish, and this one error thus become an indication of imperfect judgment.

Plants that have been kept in pits should now be exposed to light, and air admitted freely.

Lawks should be rolled and mown frequently at this season; by so doing the roots or crowns will tiller more abundantly, and each rolling while the ground is yet soft will aid in pressing into smooth surface any inequalities.

Cuttings of currants, gooseberries, flowering shrubs, etc., may yet be made and planted; but they should be carefully mulched, else the feeble young roots which they will make in the early season will dry up on approach of heat and drought.

Pittsbueg, 7th March, 1867.