29. Red Alpine

This very old European strawberry, is of extremely easy culture, not being particular as to soil or locality, and invariably productive. They are best raised from seeds, which, if sown early in spring, in pans, placed in a little heat to forward them, pricking off into other pans when large enough, and finally into beds in the open air, when of sufficient size, by autumn they will give a good crop, and the following season bear plentifully. They should be renewed in this way frequently. Fruit small, conical, bright scarlet, with peculiar delicate flavor.

30. White Alpine

Requires the same treatment, and is in every respect similar to the red, save color, which is white.

31. Rostock

An old fruit of the Pine class, not much cultivated of late. Fruit large, round, white; middling flavor and good bearer. The color of its fruit appears to have been its chief recommendation.

32. Roseberry

A pretty scarlet variety, of medium size, and very productive. Fruit ovate; flavor middling; early. Not now much cultivated, larger and better flavored fruit having displaced it.

33. Swainstone Seedling

Originated by the gardener at Swainston, in the Isle of Wight, from Keen's Seedling. In England, of late, its reputation is on the decline. An uncertain bearer. Fruit large, ovate, light crimson, and fine flavor.

34. Wilmot's Superb

This was one of the first attempts made to improve the Chili, and when it made its appearance caused considerable sensation among strawberry growers; it was, however, soon found to be a very poor flavor, and shy bearer, when it soon became neglected. Fruit of the largest size, round, though much inclined to become cockscomb-shaped; deep scarlet color, and ripens about mid-summer.

35. Wilmot's New Scarlet

Like the preceding, not much cultivated of late; from its being a poor bearer, and second in flavor to many others. Fruit large, oval, bright scarlet. Medium season.

Dr. Hull has, in a former No. of this Journal, noticed a fruit called Victoria; the name leads me to suppose it to be English, but I know of no fruit under that name. British Queen has been sometimes sold as such. This present time a variety is advertised by an English grower, under this name. If Dr. Hull's fruit is English, I have not the least doubt, but that it is a synonym.

In 1850 three new strawberries, or rather two new and one old, made their appearance, namely: Myatt's Surprise, Wilmot's Prince Arthur, and La Delicious; the two first are seedlings, and may prove useful, but the last named is an old variety brought into notice under a new name; the parties who paid their $15 per hundred, can by now say in what its superior merits consist.

It has very frequently become my duty to recommend varieties to growers; my advice invariably was cultivate but few varieties; for a small garden three sorts are ample, namely, Keen's Seedling, British Queen and Elton; if there is plenty of room, and more vari-' ety is desirable, add Cuthill's Black Prince, Princess Alice Maud, and Myatt's Globe, which will be sufficient for the largest garden. This was, of course, for an English soil and climate, and for such there cannot be better than those which I have named. In this country Keen's Seedling and others may not succeed, yet among the remainder something valuable may be found.

To give any cultural remarks on strawberries, may appear a work of supererogation in this country, where this fruit is grown to such an unlimited extent; yet a word or two on the English mode of culture may not be out of place.

The soil best suited for this fruit is a good firm loam, though not of too adhesive a nature, which should be trenched from 2 1/2 to 3 feet in depth, using plenty of good rotten dung. Early in June - or as soon as the runners are of sufficient strength - select good strong runners with fine bold crowns, and plant them out in rows one foot a part in the row, the weaker grown varieties two feet from row to row, and the strongest growers three feet. Some growers still plant in beds, but in general the best cultivators have abandoned that practice and experience tells me it is not a good one. Alter planting they should receive frequent waterings until they are thoroughly established, when attention must be given to keep the ground hoed and clean from weeds though the summer and autumn. (In this climate many delicate varieties will require protection in winter.) The following summer will bring an abundant crop. While progressing in growth in spring, keep clean from weeds, and should the weather prove dry, when in bloom and swelling the fruit, water copiously - this should not be scantily, but when done well soak the ground - a few good soakings of liquid manure at this season is of immense value; all this should, however, be withheld as soon as the fruit approaches maturity, as a deterioration in its flavor would be the consequence if persisted in.

When the crop is over, if large size and first quality is wanting for the next season, divest the plants of all runners as they appear; but if quantity, not size, is desirable, let all runners occupy the ground between the rows; keep clear of weeds through the summer, and in the autumn give a rich top-dressing of good dung; through winter and following spring, let the routine be as in the the first season; when the fruit now approaches maturity, a magnificent crop will repay the assiduous cultivator. When the second crop is over, the best growers destroy the lot, having a fresh one coming on to take its place. They will, however, bear a third season pretty well, after which they should invariably be destroyed. Strawberries will succeed in different soils and under other circumstances, but if the directions I have given are literally followed, success is certain.

In the present day, this fruit is forced to a very great extent, and with what success will be better imagined, when I say I have seen fruit of Keen's Seedling, British Queen and others, as large, if not larger, as high colored and rich flavored, out of the forcing house, as ever I have seen grown in the open air, under the most favorable circumstances. Proceed in this way; in June or sooner, if the runners are strong enough, take your pots (about three inches in diameter,) to the strawberry bed, with some rich light mold; into these lay your strongest runners, one in a pot, see that they have round, bold, well formed crowns - as they bloom better than the long pointed ones; as soon as they have rooted firmly in the pots cut them off, and shift into pots eight or nine inches in diameter, in good turfy loam, mixed with about one-third rotten dung; in the bottoms of the pots put a handful of soot; when potted let them be stood in an open airy situation, but not plunged, as they fill their pots with roots much better when the air circulates about the pots; (in this climate, under the intense heat of a burning sun, they had better be placed in a shady situation, but not under the drip of trees.) Water occasionally with liquid manure, to get them strong and well rooted, as on this will after success depend.

As September and October approach, gradually withhold the water, and let them sink into a dormant state. About the middle of the latter month the plants should be stowed away in the following manner. Mark out a piece of ground about thirty inches broad, and of any given length; then lay a row of pots down each side, the plants outwards and the bottoms of the pots towards the center; the space between the pots should be filled with old tan, sand or any similar material, raising it a little above the level of the pots; on this place another row, keeping the rims of these within the rims of the bottom rows; fill with old tan, as in the first case; proceed in this way until there are five or six rows of pots on each side, when it presents the appearance of a ridge; the top is thatched or covered with litter, to throw off rain and keep the roots and plants dry and healthy. In frosty weather dry litter should be thrown over the plants to prevent them becoming frozen, (still more necessary here.) They are also more easy of access, and can be removed into the forcing-house at any time.

Many large growers introduce their first batch of plants into the forcing-house moist atmosphere, until the plants are in flower, when it should be dry; at this stage the heat by night should never be more than 50°; pass the hand gently over the trusses of bloom, to assist in the diffusion of the pollen. After the fruit is set, the heat may be raised from 60° to 70o; water every alternate watering with liquid manure, while in bloom, and the fruit swelling; when in bloom all the small flowers should be picked off to about six to a truss, and when fairly set these should be reduced to three or four, which will be sufficient to a truss; syringe them frequently, except when in flower; when the least sign of green fly is perceptible, fumigate; as the fruit approaches maturity discontinue water; keep a dry atmosphere, with as much sun-light and air as possible, to enhance flavor. Cuthill's Black Prince, Keen's Seedling, and British Queen, are about the best for this purpose. J. S.

Washington, Nov. 2,1851.