In looking over the December number of the Horticulturist (a work which I often re-peruse with increased interest), I notice the queries of "C., Chicago," regarding the failure of his grape vines. Having had some experience in growing grapes, I beg leave to inform the gentleman that his communication bears on the face of it the cause of his failure, namely, the deficient state of the vine border. It is certainly the first time I have heard of a border for grapes being constructed of "light, sandy peat," especially in a country like this, where the temperature ranges so high in summer, accompanied often with long periods of drouth. Whoever was wise enough to recommend such a process deserves a "diploma and a gold medal." It is a soil I would use for Rhododendrons or other "American" shrubs, but never for vines. I would advise "C." to remove entirely his present vine border, and substitute good Joam of a heavy nature, rotted turf, and well rotted stable manure. Indeed, ho cannot do better than follow the able editorial advice in answer to a correspondent contained on page 576 of the December number. It is there said that "stable manure should form the chief fertilizing ingredient in every vine border" - an opinion with which I perfectly concur.

With regard to the drainage, another important item, I have used, with perhaps equal success, oyster shells, lime rubbish, or any similar substance containing nourishment, and at the same time answering for drainage. I would by all means advise "C." not to depend on the watering which his predecessor may have given the vines. I have had no experience in the shading of vines with canvass or any other material, as I never saw the necessity of using it in any country. I believe we have it here as hot in summer as at Chicago - the thermometer frequently ranging as high as 100° and 105° in the shade, yet by means of ventilation I have always been able to keep the houses lower in temperature than the external atmosphere. I approve of C.'s system of pruning - the spur system is the best way of getting heavy crops. So accustomed am I to consider a thermometer a necessary appendage to every glass-house, that I am constrained to ask "C." if that useful little instrument is not to be had in Chicago!

I have been a reader of your delightful journal from the first, and although this is my first communication, I crave your permission to add a few more words. I have read with great interest the excellent practical remarks of Mr. Messer, of Geneva, in the March number regarding the "White Muscat of Alexandria"; although I never saw glass sashes used for an outside border, the advantage of Mr. Messer's plan will be at once obvious to every practical hand. I have often used hot manure for the same purpose, which I have also, at the same time, made subservient to the raising of cucumbers, melons, etc., by the aid of sashes. My opinion is, that the White Muscat is the best flavored grape I have ever tasted: Downing truly observes - " the most delicious of all grapes." I prefer it to the Black Hamburg for flavor when perfectly ripe, and Mr. M. seems to have had it in this condition, as his fruit had attained a yellowish color. It is a sort, however, which I would hardly recommend for a cold vinery, as it ripens late; much, however, would depend on the management of the border, which Mr. Mk88er seems to have managed skillfully, when he has brought this delicious sort to such perfection without the aid of artificial heat I may add, that some years since I saw the White Muscat and Black Hamburg tested by eminent judges at a Horticultural dinner, when the palm for flavor was awarded to the first mentioned; as to that world renowned sort, the Black Hamburg, there cannot be a doubt that it is the most profitable of all grapes, whether for a cold or heated vinery.

Mr. Down-ing's description of the White Muscat is very correct, except with regard to its thick skin, in which particular I rather agree with Mr. Messer in calling it a thin skinned grape. The White Muscat is always grown in England in forcing houses - the roots planted inside, but having free communication with the outside border. To prevent the roots extending too far, a stone wall is sometime built at a certain distance from the front wall of the house. It has often occurred to me that vine culture would be greatly simplified by forcibly confining the roots all inside the house, more especially when they are forced, so as to have root and top as near as possible at the same temperature.

There are a few other sorts of grapes which I would venture to recommend to American cultivators - such as as the Grizzly Frontignan, and the White Frontignan. The White Nice is a pretty good grape, and yields large bunches. I lately saw the Black Tripoli, a superior sort, one of the bunches fully four pounds weight; but I believe it is rather a difficult kind to manage. I notice that Mr. Downing recommends, in his "Fruits and Fruit-Trees," the Black Saint Peter as an excellent sort for a cold house. I think he must have been in error with regard to this variety, as, so far as my experience goes, confirmed by that of many other cultivators, I have found it to be a very difficult kind to bring to perfection without the aid of a high temperature; at all events, I am sure it is not a sort fit to be grown in collection, and, indeed, there are several sorts which, to grow to complete perfection, would require each a house for itself. There are many other sorts of grapes which I have grown, but cannot do better than refer the amateur to the various excellent works which have been issued on the fruits of this country, where every necessary detail is given.

Grapes And Graperies #1

There is no fruit-bearing plant, adapted to temperate climates, at once so available and useful as the grape; and now that cultivators seem to be settling down to a unanimity of opinion with regard to the culture of both foreign and native varieties, it may safely be predicted that the grape is to take the first rank among American fruits.

The recent valuable additions to our list of hardy and native kinds has given an impetus to their cultivation, and awakened an interest in the production of seedlings of further excellence, leaving little room to doubt that we will at no distant day, possess varieties equal to the best of any climate, and produce abundant crops with as much success and facility as we do Indian corn.

The first requisite in grape culture is a sufficient depth of porous soil. A free percolation of water through the soil is indispensable. Mere richness of soil is only of secondary importance, no amount of surface manuring will secure profitable crops on a retentive subsoil.

A sandy loam is the most suitable, although proper draining and trenching will render even clayey loams adapted for their profitable growth. The soil should be broken up at least 18 inches in depth, so that the roots may ramify in a medium somewhat exempt from external influences, and ensure a uniform healthy growth from the opening buds to the ripening of the crop. Having thus prepared the soil we would commend the following general routine of management. Procure plants not more than one year from the cutting, and prune them down to a couple of inches when planted. The treatment during the first season will consist in simply securing them to their supporting trellis. In winter prune down according to vigor; if the canes have grown to 10 or 12 feet, prune down to about half of that length. Most of the buds will produce a fruiting shoot; allow not more than two bunches on each shoot. Tying up to the trellis is all that will be necessary until the period for winter pruning arrives. During August and September it may be necessary to dust the vines with sulphur in order to prevent or check the spread of mildew.

The great secret in grape growing is to preserve the foliage healthy and unimpaired until the crop is gathered.

Let the winter pruning be directed to the securance of young growths; the renewal system of pruning best encourages the growth of young strong shoots, which invariably produce the best fruit.

There is no danger of the plants overbearing, if pruned understandingly during winter and "let alone most severely" during the period of growth. Summer pinching and pruning weakens and retards growth, and diminishes the foliage necessary to ripen the fruit.