Outdoor Figs

The present is a good period for pruning and training Figs on open walls. Figs are not grown in many gardens, and where they are, they are generally left to take care of themselves. The straggling old trees seem very happy without attention, as, indeed, they probably are. They have found something which they like underground, and so they spread in all directions, bearing a little fruit sometimes by way of showing that they can do it if they like, but for the most part sprawling about in light-hearted enjoyment of life. They like to grow in a sheltered angle between walls, and their favourite place is near a doorway, as they can thrust unexpected shoots across it at short notice, and slap the faces of unwary visitors who enter hurriedly. The Figs enjoy this most in wet weather. The owner can control them if he likes, and the way to set about it is to cut all the old straggling shoots out entirely, then to select just as many of the previous year's growths as can be trained to the wall without overlapping each other when in full leaf, and nail them in, like Peach shoots. The most sportive old Fig may be reduced to subjection by these means. The shoots trained in ought to bear fruit the same year, but the grower had better not take into his calculations any fruits that were formed in autumn, and are now hanging on the trees. These " flatter only to deceive." They are sure to fall later on, but fresh ones will come, and will probably swell and ripen.

Does the mention of Figs suggest to some reader who is now Figless that he would like to have a tree in his garden? Then let him plant one now. Any fruit nurseryman will supply him at no great cost. I advise the planter to abstain from using manure, unless his soil is very poor indeed, as the Fig grows quite rampantly enough without. Instead, let him dig in some mortar rubbish, or, failing this, lime and wood-ashes. Further, let him ram the soil firmly about the roots. The variety Brown Turkey is one of the best. It crops well, and the flavour is delicious.

Early Grapes

I spoke in the previous chapter of the starting of the Vines into growth for yielding early Grapes. Those who have Vines in bloom at the present time have the happy promise of success before them. The house is filled with a pleasant perfume; it is an agreeable place to enter, to work in. But for the present there is not much to do, as watering the borders is best omitted while the bloom lasts. When the fruit has set it may be resumed. A buoyant atmosphere, not too humid, should be maintained, and the temperature may be about 550. In the case of later Vines, which may be just breaking into growth, note should be taken of the shoots. There may be more than one bud on each spur, and in this case the better of two or more shoots should be taken, and encouraged to make healthy extension in a moist atmosphere. The borders should be kept damp. And when the bunches of fruit show, which they will speedily do, the grower should learn to discriminate between those of good and those of bad form. A short, dumpy bunch will show its character at once, and there need be no fear about parting with it, as another is sure to form. An effort should be made to get a long, symmetrical bunch, because such a one will maintain its graceful form as it develops. When the lateral has extended to a couple of leaves beyond the chosen bunch, it may be stopped by pinching off the tip. The laterals will not grow naturally in the horizontal position that they will have when, presently, they are tied down to the wires; and the task of bringing them down is a delicate one, as they snap off easily. It is best done by stages, preferably early in the day.

Do not turn heat on to late vineries yet awhile.

Melons

Like Grapes, Melons can be had in succession if suitable structures exist, but those whose glass accommodation is limited to one house, in which other plants have to be grown, may perhaps abstain from growing early Melons, as the plants want a good deal of heat and moisture - conditions which may not be suitable for the other plants in the house. If there is a heated pit in which the Melons can have the first claim, seed may be sown now, one each in small pots, using a soil of loam, leaf mould, and sand. The seed will not be long in germinating in a small house, especially if the pots can be put in a propagator, or in a damp place near hot-water pipes. When roots show at the bottom of the pots the plants may be transferred to 5-inch, and from these to mounds of soil placed two feet apart on slates on the stage. The plants should not be stopped, but allowed to extend up the roof. It is not wise to give them large mounds of soil; but, as in the case of Cucumbers, to supply enough to nicely cover the roots, and to give more in the form of warm, lumpy topdressings of loam, when they are well established and show roots at the top of the mound.