Brussels Sprouts

In speaking of the planting of Brussels Sprouts in an earlier chapter, it was recommended to plant them wide apart, in order that they might not grow into each other. There is another direction, however, in which they may become crowded, and that is in the stem leaves. The grower will notice that it is the habit of the Brussels Sprout to form a tuft of leaves at the top of the stem, and to throw out others from the sides. The former should be retained, but the latter interfere with the development of small, hard sprouts on the stem, in addition to harbouring insects, and ought to be removed. They may be broken short off one by one at intervals of a few days until none are left. Firm sprouts will then form on the stem, and steadily develop until they are nearly as large as golf balls (the varieties differ somewhat in size of sprouts) when they are ready for use. The Brussels Sprout is one of the most useful green vegetables of autumn. It gives a great deal of produce, and the flavour is excellent so long as the sprouts are firm; when they are loose and open the flavour is poor.

Cabbages For Spring

Spring Cabbages from seed sown at the end of July may be ready for planting out now. If they are three inches high they are large enough. They may be planted in rows eighteen inches apart, and made quite firm, as this has a considerable influence on early hearting. On that account it is an excellent plan to put them out in ground from which Onions have been removed, as it is both fertile and firm.

Cauliflowers that were sown in August may be pricked out nine inches apart for the winter. If they are dwarf, sturdy plants, and are put into firm soil, they may pass the winter safely, and give a useful early crop next year.

Carrots

The crop is nearly or quite mature, but there need be no hurry about lifting so long as the roots are not splitting at the top; if they are, they had better be taken up at once.

Celery

If the district is mild there is very little fear of sharp frost yet, and consequently any Celery that is at all backward may be left unearthed at present. It will probably make a good deal of growth in October. Any plants that are full grown may be earthed. A great deal of soil will be required to thoroughly earth a row of large Celery. It should be raised quite to the tuft of leaves at the top of the plant at the second earthing, the first one merely filling up the trench. The soil ought to be in a moist, crumbly state when applied. If the Celery has been tied, there is little fear of earth getting inside, otherwise the stems must be held together in the early stage of the earthing.

Late Winter Cucumbers

If Cucumbers are being grown for an autumn supply, they must be planted out soon on mounds of warm, rich soil. The hints given for the treatment of the early crop will apply.

Endive And Lettuces

Plants for spring, raised by sowing seed in August, ought to be ready for planting out now, and should be put a foot apart.

Onions

Continue the ripening off of mature bulbs in accordance with previous hints. Plants raised from seed sown in August may be thinned, so that they stand quite clear of each other.

Turnips

August sowings may be thinned, and a sowing of the excellent hardy variety Chirk Castle made for winter.