The other side and end are put in, in a similar way to that just described. The edges or overlaps returning upon the side and end already lined, should be carefully cut off with a chipping-knife when the lead is in its place, leaving about 1/8th of an inch for driving into the angle, for keying the jointing and preventing the solder running through.

The sides and ends being lined, the bottom follows. Turn up the edges of the bottom in a rounding form, so as to allow the lead to stand up a little at each of the four sides, and boss up the corners of the bottom, so as to have a reserve of lead at such points for dressing into the corners of the cistern angles; then put the bottom in its place, and dress the lead well into each angle with the aid of the dresser and chase-wedge. Cut off the edge of the turn-up against the sides, so as to leave about 1/8th of an inch stand-up, for well keying the lead into the angle.

Having lined the cistern, soil a margin of 4 in. or 5 in. on each bide of the angles to be soldered, and, when dry, shave the angles. The shaving on the bottom, f, fig. 101, should be about 1/4 inch wider than on the sides, g; the upright angles, fig. 100, should be of equal width each side. The shaving should not extend beyond the solder, for the lead is weakened with wide shaving, especially when the solder is wiped off from it again. In shaving the lead be very careful not to dig the point of the shave-hook into the lead and so reduce its substance; simply shave the lead to brighten it, that the solder may readily tin upon it. Pull the point of the shave-hook along on the edge of the lead at the joining the edge of the overlap, so as to close up any space between the two leads, to prevent the solder running in between them when soldering the cistern. Having shaved the angles, and greased them, to prevent tarnishing, punch in the edges, about every 9 in., with a bright punch, with, say, 1/4 in. face, or other bright instrument, for securing the lead in its place, but do not put a single nail into the angles, or you will have some trouble in soldering over the heads, for they are sure to "blow."

Fig. 100. - Section of Cistern Soldering. Upright Angle.

The upright angles must be soldered first. If you cannot pour the metal upon a cloth or stick, and guide it into the angle in that way, you can splash the solder into the angle from the ladle with a splash-stick. Splash the solder very rapidly up and down the angle, and pull it up now and then with the splash-stick, and keep it in its place; and when you have a good body of solder in the angle, from the bottom to the top, take a well-heated and well-cleaned iron, and draw it up and down the angle, " patting " the solder into its place, then wipe down the angle quickly, pressing the cloth hard upon each edge of the soldering with the points of the fingers, so as to get clean wiping. In finishing off the upright angle at the bottom, pull away all the fallen solder, and well under-cut the angle with the shave-hook, for easy joining when wiping in the bottom. Having wiped the two upright angles, the bottom comes next, and with plenty of solder, and two or three irons, this is soon done. Rub a little chalk upon the soldering of the upright angles first to prevent the solder adhering to the angles above the wiping. Some men take many more irons to solder a cistern than others, but a skilled man ought to wipe out the cistern mentioned above with 6 irons - 2 for the angles, and 4 for the bottom; such a cistern ought to be lined and soldered in about 10 hours.

Fig. 101. - Transverse Vertical Section of.Horizontal Angle.

Some plumbers make the return edges, the underlap, too wide or too narrow. When such is the case it is impossible to get nice clean edges of soldering, for the edge of the lead is sure to make the face of the lead covering it irregular, however much it may be feathered off with the shave-hook. When the edge of the lead stands as shown in fig. 100, the shaving-line is well outside the line of the edge, and is therefore free from any irregularities - i.e., the return edge on to the wood should be less than 3/4 in. or more than 1 1/2 in. Fig. 100 shows a section of the upright angle (half-full-size), and fig. 101 a section through the bottom angle, to the same scale.

7. Having fully described the method of lining a wood cistern with lead, it is not neceessary to describe how to line a wood sink. Where a sink is not likely to be much used, it may be lined in one piece of lead, soldering the vertical angles only, somewhat as a cesspool (Chap. VIII.). But sinks generally receive much wear and tear. Where this is the case the bottoms should be cut out of sheet lead, weighing 10 lbs. or 12 lbs. to the sup. ft., and the sides and ends out of 7 lbs. or 8 lbs., and the angles strongly wiped. The lead returned upon the top edges of the sink, where they are exposed and likely to receive rough usage, should be protected by oak cappings, secured with strong brass cap and screws. (Chap. XXXIII., Art. 12.)