This section is from the book "Tool Processes In Woodworking", by A. P. Laughlin.
Books that explain all about glue and how to use it are to be found in nearly all libraries. For this reason and to give you a method for research, it has been decided not to write much upon this matter, but rather to suggest that you investigate the subject about as follows:
1. Secure at least three books that contain something about glue and how to use it.
2. Tabulate all the statements made by the various authors.
Note the repetitions and contradictions if any.
3. Arrange the statements into two groups, one telling facts about glue, the other how to use glue; and arrange them according to their importance.
It would be interesting to find out which author gave us the most information, which put his material into the clearest form, and the reasons each had for selecting the information given, while rejecting that offered by the others.
4. Arrange and perform a series of experiments to verify the statements made by the various authors, and record the results, whether successful or otherwise.
1. Make two glue joints - one with thoroly seasoned lumber, and the other with "green" lumber. Make the pieces of fairly good size and length.
2. Set them away in a warm dry place where the air can circulate freely about them.
3. Note what happens and draw your own conclusions.
Would your conclusions be better if a dozen joints had been made with each kind of material and all had been treated alike? Might not one piece, for some unknown reason, act in an uncharacteristic manner?
4. Try the same experiment, but give the glued pieces one or two coats of shellac or varnish before setting them away. In place of the shellac, try the effect of stain alone; of filler alone.
5. Put some oil or grease on the surface of a joint and then attempt to glue the parts together. Does the joint hold well?
6. Why should end wood be sized before gluing?
7. How is a "rubbed joint" made?
8. Find out how glue is made and try to make some yourself.
9. Collect as many samples of glue and cement as possible and test their holding powers. Be sure to keep a record of all your experiments. Try to devise a good form for your notes and do not neglect the date.
1. A thick layer of glue between two surfaces will not hold well. The strongest joint is made by covering both surfaces well with glue and then pressing them together as tightly as possible, thus forcing the glue into the fiber of the wood, for the holding is done by the hundreds of little needle-like projections that are thus formed.
2. Because of the fact that the needle-like projections are what hold the pieces together, the glue should never be chilled when it is applied, for if it is it will not penetrate well into the wood. Hence, the wood should be warmed if the very best results are to be obtained.
3. The harder the wood, the thinner the glue should be. Why? Experiment to determine the best thickness of glue to use on paper, cloth, white pine and white oak.
4. If glue gets onto a surface that is to be stained or finished, the stain will not penetrate because the fibers are already full of glue. Hence, before gluing work, would it be wise to stain or smear with soap any parts that might be stuck with the glue? Is there anything else that you could use in place of soap to protect the wood? See experiment No. 5. Most prepared glues will hold well if the parts are dry and properly fitted. They do not penetrate as deeply as hot glue on warm wood, but they dry more slowly. The inexperienced person will often get better results with the prepared glue than with the hot glue. Then, too, it is always ready for use.
 
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