The general design is now fairly universal, but minor points differ somewhat depending upon the fancy of the user or the maker.

To quickly ascertain whether a cycle of a well-known make is in good order and safe to ride see that :

(1) The frame tubing is not bent or damaged anywhere, examine especially the tubing near the joints, and note whether the enamel is good and smooth there, as cracked enamel will be the first visible sign of tube distortion.

(2) ;Examine carefully the front forks for signs of tube damage or distortion.

(3) ;See that the front forks are not bent back from a line through the head of the machine, a head-on collision will generally set the forks back, and such should be put right, preferably by getting new forks, as this is the weakest part of a cycle, and breakage there may have fatal results.

(4) ;See that the back and front wheels are in line properly with each other, if not it may be the result of twisted frame, or the front forks have been set over, or the wheels are not set properly in the frame.

(5) ;See that the frame is not bent or twisted, a visual inspection from both ends and from the side should acertain this.

(6) ;See that both wheels run truly and freely without looseness.

(7) ;See that the cranks or pedals have not been bent by a fall or blow, a short ride will show this.

(8) ;See that the pedals run easily and freely, and are yet not loose.

(9) ;Note the condition of the driving chain, whether much worn or not, a good fitting chain should lie nicely on the large chain wheel, and not show much slack when it is pulled outwards radially, where it lies on the wheel.

(10) ;Take off the chain and note the easy running or otherwise of the back wheel, also of the crank axle with cranks and pedals attached.

(11) ;If fitted with a free-wheel, replace the driving chain and, with the machine standing upright, test by the hand on one pedal, whether a place can be found where the free-wheel slips when driven forward.

(12) ;Test (ii) by a short ride, preferably uphill, also test well the three-speed gear (if fitted) in the same way.

(13) ;Examine carefully all nuts and bolts to see if any nuts have the flats defaced by careless spanner work, or whether any threads are stripped or nearly so.

(14) ;Examine the tyres carefully for cuts, etc.

(15) ;If the tyres appear to be in bad order, take them off and examine also the condition of the inner tubes.

(16) ;Try all brakes and see that the brake pads still have some more life in them, i.e., can still be adjusted for more wear.

(17) ;Look the saddle well over for any defects in leather or springs.

(18) ;Examine the handle-bars carefully for any sign of damage or distortion.

(19) ;If any doubt exists as to the condition of any bearing, then take it apart and examine carefully.

(20) ;If everything appears in good order, a final test would be to take out the front forks from the ball head, and examine the whole upper tube of the forks well for signs of any damage especially near the fork crown.

If the machine can pass all the above tests, and also show nothing else wrong it can safely be taken as trustworthy.

The three main improvements in cycles have been the pneumatic tyre, the free-wheel, and the multi-speed gear, all being in the direction of decreasing the work required from the rider.

The general external appearance of the pneumatic tyre is well known. The tread pattern on the cover, and the section through the cover differs with different makers. A common method of holding on the outer cover is by the provision of a beading or lip on both edges, which fit under the turned over lip of the wheel rims. The cover beading being kept in the proper position by the compressed air in the inner tube. Another type of fixing or holding on an outer cover is to provide it with a steel wire formed into a circle, which circle is embedded in each side of the cover at the edges. The rims for such covers have the centre portion formed with an annular depression below the level of the rim edges. The cover being placed over the rim edge, it is worked by hand into the centre part of the rim, this being done gradually all round. It will be found that the cover will then pass over the rim easily, although the rim edge is of a larger diameter than that of the tyre edge. In the event of the tyre being punctured, it is easier to repair if the lamp be taken off and the machine be stood upside down. Examine the cover carefully for nails, wire, thorns, glass, etc ; if found, mark the place with a pencil. If nothing is showing, pump the tyre well up, and look for air bubbles (if the cover is wet) and listen for any hissing. When the place is found, use a tyre lever of the one-minute type, one well on each side of the place, and lever the cover off, having previously taken out the valve sleeve, and so deflated the tyre completely. Pull the exposed edge of the cover downwards towards the wheel hub, and go round the wheel until about half the cover is off. The inner tube can then be felt and gently pulled out. On finding the puncture, clean the tube well with glass paper, or a wire brush; do not use any petrol on it. Rough glass paper is best, get a good clean and rough surface. If using ordinary patches, rub the cleaned place well with rubber solution, and let it dry until when gently touched it is quite sticky, generally termed tacky. The patch having been treated in the same way, is now placed into position, and pressed well down. Rub well with French chalk, and replace the inner tube, put back the valve, and pump up, say 6 to 10 pumpfuls. Replace the cover and work into position, taking care not to grip or nip the inner tube, finally pump up as hard as preferred. Small punctures or leaks can be sometimes very troublesome indeed; if evidence points to such, make sure first that it is not due to a defective valve rubber, such rubbers or sleeves can be bought at three for one penny, and if in any doubt change for a new one at once, and indeed it is advisable to do this to both wheels at the start of each season. Various puncture stop preparations are sold for putting into the inner tubes, and for which it is claimed that they seal up small punctures. The inner tube valve most generally used is perhaps the Dunlop valve ; this is very effective if properly used, and is simple to adjust and put together, there are only four main points to observe to get certain satisfaction : (1) See that the rubber sleeve is in good order and condition, i.e., not split, perished or swollen. (2) That the dust cap is present, and is used.