In both classes of spinning both with and without hole, there are shallow and deep pieces.

If there is any art at all in this work it consists in laying the material on to the form of a uniform thickness throughout. One is liable to stretch the material so badly that in some portions of the finished piece it will be as thin as tissue paper. On no account must the sheet be dragged ; it must be laid or plastered on the form.

So in shallow spinning the disc is spun straight into the form. One can take much thinner material, the rim being curled over and grooves or ridges spun in to give strength to. the article. The deep spinning on the other hand is progressive, it calls for certain consideration of each stage and the shape given each time, progressively with the ultimate object in view. Deep spinning therefore requires thicker gauge material which shall offer some resistance to the tool, as there will be no backing except quite at the last, when the article assumes its finished shape. In each successive spinning, before annealing, one will have laid just a little more on the form and immediately the remainder has been spun back much the same as the gradual closing of an umbrella. Often in deep spinning, the spun shell will adhere so closely to the form that it will not come off. If so the surface may be lightly spun over with a metal burnisher, which always seems to increase the size of the shell.

Just when the shell requires annealing can always be felt by the springiness or elasticity of the metal, which refuses any longer to shape itself under the tool.

The outside will require trimming now and again with a Vee metal turning tool to keep it circular.

The surface of the disc must be lubricated with grease, soap or vaseline.

If these instructions are followed, the metal will lay itself smoothly along or into the form of a uniform thickness, not varying more than 1/1000 inch up to nearly what was the original rim of the disc, where it will be found to be ever so much thicker, probably proportionate to the reduction in diameter.

Annealing means raising the shell up to a dull red heat and laying it down to cool. Of course the flame in which the shell is heated must be a very clean one. When annealing brass spinnings these must not be plunged into water, for this tends to scale the surface and distorts the shape every time. The heated piece should be allowed to cool by itself so it may be laid on a piece of metal. The spinnings are so thin that they cool anywhere at once without having to plunge them.

First off, the beginner may get a number of wrinkles in the edges of his discs, this from forcing the material too much, or not annealing it in time, or from not keeping the edges swept back in proper proportion to the amount laid on the form. Such a beginner might make a little wooden round pointed mallet, also a domed-top little wooden anvil. If the wrinkles are not too bad he will be able to beat them out with these tools.

Since the material will come to hand in the form of sheets, and the starting piece will always be a circular disc, one must have a few minor tools. A fine centre punch, a pair of decent six-inch dividers with hardened points for scribing the circles on the sheet, a nice pair of metal shears for cutting out the circular discs. For the hole in the centre, say £in., a tinman's cupped metal punch is as good as anything, the disc being placed on a block of lead. One pair each 5 or 6in. long snipe nose and long flat nose pliers just for holding the discs over the flame when annealing. If one has gas, a little double-flame gas heater, costing about 4/-, can be had. If not gas, a small Primus stove gives a nice clean flame.

Before continuing the subject it seems requisite to describe the spinning accessories supplied for use on the Verschoyle Patent Mandrel, and their respective uses.

The special hardwood spinning stick is about 15in. long. It is held in the right hand with its point somewhat below the centre. This point is levered upwards, resting on the spinning rest while the side of the stick pressing against the pin allows it to be levered around this pin as a fulcrum. Thus the point of the stick describes a series of curves. The other end of the stick is held very firmly, the elbow and forearm pressing it against the side of the body. Generally the spinning stick is used for all simple shapes, curves, cups, bowls, trays and so on, while the burnishers produce the sharper ridges, recesses, beads, curls over, and so forth.

The power exerted by the right hand on the stick will always be proportionate automatically to that exerted by the left hand in turning the work round.

The disc to be spun chucked, either by its centre hole or by the pressure of the tailstock, will be smeared with soap.

One will begin at the centre, a few sweeps of the stick begin to form the shape. But immediately the rim curls forward, so this must be swept back. Then a few more sweeps near the centre and more at the rim to keep it back in its place until the piece requires to be annealed.

The spinning rest replaces the ordinary handrest tee. Its pin provides the fulcrum against which the side of the stick or burnisher will rest. This pin can be put into any hole wherever the most advantageous leverage is to be obtained.