This section is from the book "Workshop Receipts For Manufacturers And Scientific Amateurs. Supplement Aluminium To Wireless", by The Chemical Publishing Co.. Also available from Amazon: Workshop Receipts For Manufacturers And Scientific Amateurs.
The straw should next be drawn from the bottom of the heap where the pressure is greatest. The usual method is to grasp as much straw as can be gripped by both hands, the two being held close together. The straw is then drawn out by a quick movement of the arms towards the right, followed by a swing over to the left, finally laying it at the worker's feet, the thickest end being to his right-hand side. The work of yealming is usually undertaken bv t he thatcher's assistant or server.
When a sufficient quantity of this partially straight straw has been collected, the yealmer works through it, using his fingers to regulate it and to remove any loose portions, at the same time drawing the bundle closer to his feet, until the layer amounts to as much as he can hold in the grip of both hands. A "yealm " thus formed should never be broken, but kept firm and secure until placed on the stack. As the yealms are completed, they are placed crosswise on a short rope or cord, the thick and the thin ends alternating. When of sufficient number and weight to carry, the rope which should have a running noose, is drawn round the yealms, which are in this way conveyed to the rick.
A common practice in the South of England is to place the drawn straw direct in the " thatching fork," which, when fully charged, is carried to the thatcher. Another method is to draw the straw dry and lay it on a board, after which it is damped, trimmed, and straightened out, being finally separated into yealms which are bound up in straw ropes.
The work of preparing the straw for thatching may be greatly facilitated by the use of thatch-making machines, which are now on the market.
In commencing to thatch a rick, the thatcher first prepares it by filling up any hollows with loose straw and levelling down humps in the roof in order to secure a firm, even surface. As the rick will probably have settled down, the top may require bolstering up with a " dummy," or tight-tied bundle of straw. When the roof has, in this way, been made firm and even, the straw can be laid on.
Perhaps the most opportune time for commencing the work is when the weather is somewhat damp, for the straw is none the worse for being slightly wetted. Under such conditions, also, the work of carrying in the corn is generally at a standstill, and there is ample leisure to complete the thatching of ricks which have already been erected. Very wet weather, however, is quite unsuitable, as the topmost sheaves would then be covered up while still wet with rain. Windy, gusty weather is also unsuitable for thatching as the thatch is being constantly disturbed and ruffled up.
The ladder should be placed so that it lies flat on the rick ; the work should then commence at the bottom, or eaves, the straw being meanwhile packed as firmly and securely as possible When the top is reached, the straw is laid well up to form a point, thus affording a good pitch for the water to run off. In general practice, the eave-line of the stack is laid with a double thickness of straw, in order to provide a projecting eave which will shoot the water off the stack without injuring the sides. The actual operation of laying the yealms of straw upon the stack is quite simple, and very much resembles the slating of a roof. It is important to insert the thin end of each yealm; under the roof of the stack ; this makes it doubly secure, and ensures an even and permanent thatch. The pegs, which are driven in the thatch at 8 to 9in, intervals and precisely in row, should be inserted in a horizontal direction, not vertically ; in the latter case they easily convey water into the interior of the stack, which naturally has an injurious effect. When laying the yealms alternately, one overlapping the other, the expert thatcher will keep them damp by sprinkling with water, meanwhile combing the straw with a thatcher's rake to make it lie perfectly even ; he will then beat it down lightly but firmly so as to consolidate the whole roof into a regular thatch of uniform thickness throughout.
A medium coating of straw well laid invariably throws off water much better than a larger quantity of straw badly placed together. It is customarv to commence thatching hipped-end stacks about the centre of one side, in order to ensure a good finish; gable-end stacks are usually commenced at one end. The width of stack capable of being covered without moving the ladder will depend on the thatcher's reach, but this must not be exceeded bevond comfort, for when the thatch has to be packed in at arm's length it can never be done so firmly and securely as when a shorter stretch is taken. In some districts the rows of thatch are called " stretchers " which are approximately 2 feet wide.
To keep the thatch in position, pegs made of split hazel, willow, oak, or other tough wood are used. These pegs should be cut into lengths of from two to three feet, with the ends pointed. Any knots must be shaved off so that the pegs may be pushed easily into the stack. Split hazel rods are often made to take the place of cord between pegs, an arrangement which certainly has a very ornamental appearance ; for general purposes, however, oakum or binding cord is used. As the work of laying the yealms proceeds the pegs should be inserted in a horizontal direction, and the cord secured thereto. The elaborate roping or cording of ricks is not practised so extensively at the present day as it was some years ago ; few farmers keep their grain in the ricks for more than 2 years, while with the majority under 12 months is usual. If thatching is done with good, well-drawn wheat straw, well packed upon the roof of the rick, there will be no need for the elaborate methods of pegging so frequently seen in some districts. Thatching needs to be done very thoroughly in exposed parts of the country, especially in Scotland and in high-lying farms near the coast.
The overhanging eaves of the stack must be pared or trimmed off. This is done by means of the paring knife, the sheep shears being subsequently used in order to trim off any rough edges and projecting straws, and to impart a smart " finished " appearance to the stack. The greatest importance is attached to the trimming off of the eaves : if this is well done, the under-surface of the eave will present a horizontal or even a slightly rising appearance, and the water will consequently shoot clear of the stack ; but if the shears are used incorrectly, and the eave appears sloping downwards, water will find its way into the stack.
The verge has to be combed off dingonally outwards and trimmed. This practice results naturally in a small hip rather than a peaked apex to a gable, though the latter form is possible by packing up beneath the ridge.
Working single-handed, a man should complete five " squares " in a day of 10 to 10.1- hours, though the work may be done much more rapidly. A " square " represents a hundred square feet. The usual cost of thatching a "square " now amounts to about 2/-, while for straw ricks the amount may not be more than 1/4 to 1/6. Hazel rods maybe purchased for 4/- to 6/- per 100 according to locality, with 25 rods in a bundle, and 2 bundles will generally be found sufficient to complete the thatching of 10 "squares."
 
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