THIS MONTH closes up the season out of doors. Parsnips, horse-radish, salsify, dandelion are hardy in those situations where water does not remain on the land during the winter months. Spinach, corn salad, kale, in the latitude of Massachusetts, are rather uncertain, yet often remain intact. The best protection is pine boughs brought from the woods and scattered thinly over the crop. They keep it better than anything else, but the labor of applying is considerable, and would be quite expensive over a large area. Perfect heads of cabbage buried in pits keep well; for imperfect heads, those not quite hard, pull them up with the dirt on, and set at once close together in a trench four feet wide, just below the surface of the ground; cover with leaves from the woods, and later, lightly with earth. These will be hard heads in the spring. Last winter I wintered several hundred successfully. They should be used at once when uncovered.

Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, endive, kohl rabi and celeriac will keep for a time in a winter house. Dandelion and rhubarb roots for forcing should be kept cold after digging till the time when they are wanted. I consider fall as good a time to set rhubarb roots for a new plantation as any. Cut the roots in pieces having one or two large eyes each, and set in holes dug at the required distance, which is usually four feet apart each way. Cover the rhubarb crowns with manure ; also asparagus, after burning the old stalks. Bring bean poles under cover, if possible; set them on and around a central support if nothing better can be done.

Leeks will keep well in the winter house, and if banked up with the stalks will sometimes winter out of doors. Green scullion onions will sometimes winter successfully in the same way on the spot where they grew. The Egyptian onion is sure to live and make an early growth in spring. Endive, lifted with the dirt on the roots, will keep two months in a cellar. Spinach and kale, cut and brought into the cellar, will keep quite well for two or three weeks. Celery cannot be left in the field after November 10th with safety. If not bleached, bring it into winter quarters on some dry day when the ground is not frozen, if possible. I saw 300 roots kept till April, in fairly good condition, near a hatch-way in an unheated cellar that was opened daily all winter. The celery was set against the wall, and the earth in which it grew was drawn half way up the stalks. With us, all roots left in the ground after November 1st are in danger of freezing in, yet they often remain out up to the 20th. Squash with a hard shell will keep better than those without, and should be used last.

Applying manure in fall is now considered a wise thing to do if the ground is level.

Lettuce not yet half grown may be carefully lifted, set under glass over hot manure, and fairly good but not perfect heads will be formed. These will furnish lettuce in advance of the plants now newly set from seedlings. Also plant seed under glass in the greenhouse or hot bed for plants which are to be set in the beds in February. Lettuce is half hardy, but heat and glass are needed now to help it forward to perfection and attain satisfactory results. The beds, which should be carefully watched, will need mats and shutters over them at night for proper protection. Cress is fit to furnish cuttings and parsley is well started.

At this time of the year the outside and inside temperatures at night will vary about 10°, so if there is danger that the mercury will fall at night to 20°, it is best to start a fire. Water and ventilation are little needed. W. H. Bull.

Hampden Co., Mass.