In most cases the stock of garden seeds will have arrived, and along with them the usual garden requisites; and whether the items may be in large or small quantity, it is well to put them in safe quarters and arrange them alphabetically, either in drawers with names outside, or on dry shelves placed in the most come-at-able position possible. It is a practice by many to prove their seeds before sowing them - by counting a number of each, sowing or planting them in small pots, and raising them in heat and moisture. In absence of glass for the purpose, it may be done successfully in a warm room or cupboard - as, when they vegetate, they are counted and notes taken, then cast out. Disappointments are in this way prevented, and the good name of the seedsmen often preserved. When seasons are variable, very wet and cold, good seeds may be destroyed in the ground. Most seedsmen prove their seeds before they are sent out. On this practice depends their own interests. It is oftener that kinds under strong recommendations are proved to be no better than old favourites, than to find that seeds are bad in quality. It may be possible that many with limited labour - power are in arrears with their work.

The long severe winter will, no doubt, affect many; but no opportunity should now be lost in forwarding operations, whether for forcing vegetables or preparing for them in open garden-ground. All who have materials and accommodation will now be forcing the usual vegetables so much in request at this season. It is too often the case that some are expected to give large supplies with inadequate accommodation - so many kinds requiring different treatment are grown in the same structure. Crowding is sometimes resorted to, and then the produce may not be so good as a neighbour's who has every means at command. Market-growers, who have to be alive to economy, always adapt their circumstances to their means: to cram or attempt the growth of produce by means not adapted for the purpose, is profitless and unsatisfactory. Successions to "crops on the way" must have attention. When there is a demand all through the forcing season, it is always safe to start small quantities often. Rapid forcing often defeats the object in view by growing tops instead of roots or tubers, as in the case of forced Radishes, Carrots, and Potatoes, which require very little warmth at root, and next to no artificial heat at top.

Asparagus, which is so easily forced, should have a light or two filled with roots every ten or twelve days, keeping the crowns clear, but placing them as close together as possible; a little mild warmth will bring the "grass" forward rapidly. Sun-heat, harvested, when there are opportunities of turning it to account, will now do much to forward the crops; but a close, stagnant atmosphere will do much harm by giving weakly heads and bad flavour: a watering with tepid guano-water occasionally may be of much service. French Beans are now easily forced. They come up rapidly and strong, and ought to be near the glass when they have vegetated. We prefer potting rather firmly, using plenty of drainage. Whether the seed is sown in the pots, three parts full of soil, where they are to fruit, or in small pots to be transferred to larger ones, warm soil in each case is of primary importance. The plants coming through the soil strong is an indication that there are good healthy roots, the true antidote to red - spider - French Beans being the favourite food of this pest. Planting out in frames, pits, or other structures, is a good practice; labour is saved, and large crops of Beans may be had with little attention.

Use the syringe carefully when the plants are in flower; give air early in the day; avoid cold draughts; dust a little soot over the soil; when roots are abundant, give soot-water, guano-water, or some other wholesome liquid, but not thick, muddy manure - water, which would sour the soil. A surfacing of old mushroom - manure, rotted turf, and manure, mixed, does well for filling up the pots when the plants require help; and this is the chief reason why the seed is sown with the pots only three parts filled with soil. Syringing with clear soot-water - not over-strong - is good for the plants, and an enemy to thrips and spiders. Newington Wonder, Osborne's Canadian Wonder, and Sion House, are general favourites, being very productive. Another frame or pit for Horn Carrots may be sown now; or if the demand is not large, a border, sheltered by a fence or other means, may be prepared and sown. Sandy soil finely broken is very suitable, and should be fully exposed to sun: a sloping border is very desirable. A sowing of Radishes between the Horn Carrots will come in useful. Early-framed and French Breakfast Radishes are very desirable kinds at present. Protection by wire-netting placed over a framework, or common nets on hoops, may be necessary against birds and mice.

Red-lead sown with the seed is a good preventive. Mustard and Cress will have to be brought forward in heat for some time to come. Boxfuls, potfuls, or panfuls brought on by weekly sowings will keep up regular supplies. In towns where other means are not available, Mustard and Cress is often raised in the kitchen, and when in leaf, is transferred to the window during the day, and brought under cover at night. "Thread" Onions are treated in a similar manner; but they endure less heat, and without air are worthless. Capsicums may be sown in fine soil. Sprinkle the seed thinly, and cover it finely. Place in heat about 70° (less would do). When the seedlings are up, pot singly, using warmed soil. Water with tepid water, and grow them with plenty of light after they have showed signs of actual growth. Mushrooms should be brought forward in beds made every ten or twelve days. This precarious crop under the most skilful treatment fails, and often when no trouble or care is taken, abundant supplies are had; and beds coming in frequently are more likely to meet a continuous demand than a few large beds made during the course of the season.

Seakale and Rhubarb may now be brought on with ease under any system; some have a clinging to the system of covering with leaves or other fermenting material; and this is a simple matter after the crowns begin to move, their natural season of growth having now begun. The same may apply to Rhubarb; its moving naturally now and little help bring it in fit for use. The lifting of the roots, a custom so general with Seakale and Rhubarb and Chicory, may be continued till the crowns are moving. Placed under a stage where there is a little warmth allowed for plants in the structure, in a frame or pit, sufficient to keep growth moving, produce in abundance may be had at little expense and labour. Seakale must be kept dark, and air excluded, to have it fine. Seakale, Beet, and Chicory and Chicory-roots, require to be in quarters closed in from light and air, whiteness and tenderness being their best properties. Tomatoes now in heat for summer supplies should be kept near the glass. Pot them firmly, as the roots require room, and always give air when the state of the weather will allow it. Those fruiting must have their useless growths rubbed off before they get to any size.

The plants should not be allowed to bear heavy crops at this season, as there is yet little action at the roots to sustain many fruit on one plant. Herbs in demand at this season in a green state are easily brought forward, by potting a few in any ordinary soil, giving them a little warmth, and sprinkling them occasionally with the syringe or fine rose of a watering-pot; a watering at the roots to moisten all the soil is necessary. The kinds in request are Tarragon, Mint, Fennel, and some Sorrel, to keep a supply of fresh leaves. Celery may be sown for a small early supply. This is often destroyed for want of light and air, accompanied with a high temperature. "We have found the treatment given to Radishes, Carrots, and Potatoes in frames, raise seedling Celery well. Extremes and sudden changes destroy the vitality of the young plants, and render them worthless by their premature running to seed. Sow seed of Cabbage, Savoy, Kale, or Borecole (Greens in some northern localities), Leek, Brussels Sprouts, Lettuce, Cauliflower, and Parsley, on a warm, deeply-dug border. These will come in early for first supply. The seeds, sown on a dry day, and covered with fine kindly soil about the middle of the month, will vegetate freely.

Hoops on which mats can be placed for shelter, will do much for their benefit during severe weather. Handlights, shallow frames, or frame-lights placed on bricks, are of much value where better protection is not afforded. Get land prepared, by trenching, digging, and manuring, for crops as speedily as circumstances will allow. The plain crop of Onions may be sown on well-trenched ground made firm on the surface. Sow thinly in rows 1 foot to 18 inches apart (according to strength of ground); cover them very lightly. The soil ought to be finely broken; and dry Celery-ground, well trenched, is very suitable for Onions. Parsnips may also be sown for main crop, but one must be guided by the weather and state of the soil. Sow Peas and Broad Beans twice during the month. Spinach may be sown between them; or the Peas a good distance apart, and Beans between them. Peas and Beans in boxes must be kept growing slowly by allowing them plenty of air and light. Let every growing crop be stirred with a hoe or prong to keep the soil open.

M. T.