We have read more than once that it is a sure sign of a lazy gardener having the direction of a garden which is not in a high state of culture at this season - the ground turned up to frost and air, and every part of the ground as forward as spade, hoe, or rake can make it. However, we would be inclined to demur to such an accusation being laid to any gardener this season, even with a superabundance of labour-power (very few have enough of this commodity). In all the gardens we have seen this season there has been no opportunity of advancing work. First there was the wet weather, when wellmanaged gardens were nearly destitute of vacant ground, being filled throughout with useful crops. Then came the frost, which kept the soil icebound for about nine weeks. The wet (middle of February) leaves every portion of ground soaked, so that it would be foolhardy to set a foot on the soil; and when it becomes dry enough for manipulation, the first work will be to clear off dead and decaying Broccoli, trim the rag-looking leaves from Brussels Sprouts, clear off all manner of litter and eye-offending material; so that if one is to be ready to take advantage of " March dust," garden labour must be expeditiously carried forward.

Manure will, in most eases, be wheeled on to vacant spaces, and preparation for cropping will now be the order of the day. Dry soil for seed-sowing is of much importance. Sowing thinly is a matter to be considered when free-growing crops are expected; and if seeds have been proved and found good, they should not be cast into the drills at random, but evenly, so that each plant will come up clear of its fellow - and thinning done as early as possible, so that crowding may be avoided. Covering of seeds deeply is often the cause of failure; replacing the soil over them in the drills when it is wet, battering the surface like mortar, is an evil to be avoided. In heavy wet soils, which go together tenaciously after rain, seeds of the smaller class do not vegetate readily; and where it is practicable, a quantity of dry soil, from potting-sheds or elsewhere, may be used with great advantage. Now is the time to make larger sowings of Peas and Beans - and better to do it every ten or twelve days than run any risk of an interval between the supplies. Two or three kinds may be sown at one time, choosing kinds to form successions, which come into use as others begin to decline in bearing.

Some of the dwarf Peas, as Blue Peter, are useful for sowing between larger kinds sown in rows a good distance apart - the stakes of taller Peas affording shelter to many crops sown between the rows, as well as Peas and Beans. The last named are, as a rule, not recpiired in large quantities, and sowings must be made in proportion to demand. Peas may be sown more thickly now than during the warmer months. In rich land, they do well planted in wide drills two or three inches apart. They branch out and give heavy crops of fine pods, and are less likely to be destroyed by drought or mildew: loose rich soil placed over the seed is of much advantage to them. A border for early seed may be in readiness: it should be deeply trenched, well broken, and a good dash of sand or light soil worked into the surface. If there are frames, hand-lights, sashes (which can be placed on bricks), or boxes covered with glass, to afford protection from weather and birds, such would reduce the labours and anxiety of cultivators; but such coverings are often abused by neglecting to uncover the seeds when they require air and light in abundance. Nothing does well when coddled unnaturally.

On this early border may be sown Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage (early compact kinds), Carrots (Short Horn), Cauliflower, Lettuce, Parsley for transplanting, Radish, a pinch of Savoy, Scotch Kale, Borecole, and a little Turnip may be tried, but it runs quickly to seed. A gentle hotbed answers well for Turnips, and also Carrots and Radishes. The latter will be coming on well for use where they were sown early in the season. Thinning may be necessary; but where they were carefully sown, the produce may be drawn for use as they grow. A pinch of Grange's, Snow's, and Veitch's protecting Broccoli may be sown for early autumn supply. Red-lead mixed with a little dry soil may be dusted over these seeds, to check the depredations of mice and other vermin. Celery may be sown under glass twice in the month; at end of month, a sowing may be made on a sheltered border and covered with a hand-light, or protected at night from frost by hoops and mats. Plants of Celery being brought forward for earliest crops under glass, such as pits or frames, must be kept in an even temperature - about 55°, or a little more - not drenched with cold water. Have air on every favourable opportunity, all the light possible, and in no way exposed to sudden changes of any kind.

Drought to check the roots will soon drive the young plants to premature seeding. Beet may be sown in small proportions to give an early supply; but the main crops may be left till late in April, and to the beginning of May in warm southern districts. Deep, well-broken soil, not too rich, suits this root. Chillies may still be sown, and also the larger kinds of Capsicums. Those up and growing should be potted singly, to do them well. They require light and air freely when it can be admitted, but are easily injured by cold currents. Leeks may be sown in a bed for planting from into rich ground. Where circumstances will allow, they do well when sown in a well-prepared trench, heavily manured, and afterwards treated like Celery. Onions should not be out of the ground longer than possible, though we have sown them late in April with much success. They are likely to be matured early when sown in good time. The same applies to Parsnips. Spinach may be sown between bushes, other vegetable crops, or in any spare ground. Good Spinach is never had from poor, shallow soil. Sow every eight or ten days: the plants soon run to seed, and are worthless. Tomatoes should be treated like Capsicums in their young stages. Keep them near the glass, and give them plenty of air.

Pot them on to get strong plants for planting out under protection. It is now a good time to sow seed for planting out at end of May, where they can be grown out-doors, which is not often the case in cold northerly climates. Tomatoes which have been fruiting during the winter should not be cropped heavily, but have liquid-manure where roots are plentiful. Vegetable Marrows, to be grown on in frames and pits, may be sown at end of month, and kept growing evenly in moderate heat. So may also Gherkins and ridge Cucumbers. Rapid growth with these courts defeat. Crops of Potatoes in frames and pots may be brought forward with plenty of light and air, taking the lights right off (where such can be done) during mild days. Add a surfacing of light earth, and water when necessary with tepid water. Plant Potatoes of the early Kidney kinds on a warm, well-prepared border. Drills formed, and the tubers covered in them with light genial soil, is a good system for early crops. Peas may be planted from the boxes, turves, pots, or whatever they have been grown in. They should be well hardened to the weather before they are turned out. A quantity of light rich earth placed with the roots when planted will help to start them.

Stake them at once, and stick in some branches of laurels to break winds from north or east. Plant Cabbage in drills; also Cauliflowers on rich soils. The latter under hand-lights may be well surfaced with rich soil, or mulched with half-rotted manure and old turf chopped up. Those in pots ready for planting out should be gradually hardened, but not pot-bound. Keep up supplies of Sea-kale, Asparagus, and other forced produce, as required. French Beans will now bear freely. Water carefully, and give liquid-manure, clear and healthy, when they are bearing and roots plentiful. Attend to staking and surfacing, as may be required. Stakes and other requisites will be in readiness, as the frosty weather gave opportunity to prepare for the busy season. All preparations for new Asparagus, Seakale, and Rhubarb plantations may have attention. Manure well for these. Asparagus beds may be slightly forked over. Artichokes (Globe) may be much injured, and many killed: examine them, and prepare for new plantations accordingly. Jerusalem Artichokes may now be planted; also herbs of sorts, and Rhubarb, in rich soil. Forced Rhubarb may be hardened gradually, divided, and planted.

No portion of the garden where crops are growing should remain untouched by prong, hoe, or other soil-cultivator. Sweet, wholesome surfaces are of much importance to crops. M. T.