This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
Cut in the head to half its present size, and cut out altogether some of the weakest branches, that there may be room for a healthy growth from the shortened branches; at the same time that the head is cut in, take the roots out of the tub or pot, and if the ball be very hard, damp, and black, soak it some hours, and wash out all the earth. Fill the box, pot, or tub, thus: first put plenty of crocks, to secure good drainage, next the loam from rotted turves three-fourths, one* fourth cow-dung and peat, the cow-dung very much damped into mould, and the peat, which should be turfy, broken small, - the whole well mixed; some of this on top of the turves, to make a bed, as it were, for the bottom of the roots, and the pot, tub, or box, must be filled up with the compost, tucked in between and well shaken. Orange and lemon trees that appear to be doing no good, and growing no form, or an ugly one, with naked branches, and weakly shoots, may by this operation, be renovated in two or three seasons to full beauty and bearing.
But some conditions must be observed in all cases; first, that as the rotten, decayed, and closely matted portions of root must be removed, a large portion of the head must be removed also; second, that the roots must be pressed on all sides with the soil, and this can only be done with great care, and pressing the earth between them with a blunt piece of wood. It is, however, better in all cases to freely prune the roots, to facilitate this part of the operation, and to cut the head in to a complete skeleton, and shorten the whole of the branches very much, to compensate for the loss of roots, and begin the larger quantity of new wood. Let the trees thus treated be placed in a close house for some time, until the new growth has started, when all the shoots wanted to form a good full head, must be left on, but others, where they are too thick, must be rubbed off before they waste the resources of the tree unnecessarily. When they are fairly started, they may have air in mild weather, but should be shaded from the mid-day son.
Watering must not be done too often, but effectually, when done at all; and the pots or tuba mast either be on feet, or propped up with bricks, or blocks of wood, to let the air go freely underneath them, and the water that conies through them run a Way. If there be any portions of the tree so bare of shoots as to spoil the appearance, inoculate a few buds here and there, of the same kind as the head already worked, for nothing is more unsightly than a decided deficiency in the head or bush, nor is there anything much more easily rectified by means of budding or grafting. This attention, bestowed on old trees that are now so many emblems of idleness, in old establishments, would soon change their aspect; for once in sound wholesome compost,instead of the filth once recommended, they would grow vigorously, and soon bloom. Choose March for the operation; it is on all accounts the best month. As the general culture of the Orange, forms the subject of a treatise already written for this work, we shall not enlarge upon the management now, but we strongly recommend all who possess such specimens as we have mentioned, to kill them, or cure them, directly.
 
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