The soil in which I have found the cineraria to thrive best, consists of two parts of good turfy loam, and an equal apart of good, old decomposed cow dung and leaf mould, with an admixture of pearl and silver sand, mixing a little charcoal with it about the size of small walnuts. Not later than the middle of August, select the strongest offsets and pot in well drained small pots, being very careful not to saturate the soil by watering them. Place them in a cool frame near the glass, being careful to shade during hot weather, but never shade when not absolutely necessary, as by so doing the plants would draw up weak, which must be strictly guarded against, as good strong dwarf growth must be encouraged from the time of separating the offset from the parent stem, until the expansion of the first flower buds. Syringe overhead three or four times a week with clean soft water, which will not only tend to keep the plants clean and free from insects, but will greatly encourage the full development of the foliage. When the plants are well established in the pots remove the sash entirely, and if the weather should be hot, shade during the hottest part of the day with canvas.

When the pots are well filled with roots shift into well drained 4 or 6 inch pots, according to the strength of the plants, giving them rather a liberal supply of water at the root and overhead. Never allow them to suffer for the want of water, or spoil them by an over abundance, each extreme must be carefully guarded against. By the middle of October, if they have been well attended to, they will be large enough to receive their final shift into 12 or 14 inch pots.

These pots must be well drained, - place over the hole in the centre, an oyster or clam shell; over tin's an inch of broken pots, and then from one to two inches of rough loam or moss, for the final shift 1 have used the following compost with very satisfactory results; equal parts of good turfy loam, peat and leaf mould, one fourth rotten sheep dung, a few handful!s of good white sand with a small portion of small pieces of charcoal all well mixed up together ; after potting, replace them in a cool frame close to the glass, in which situation they should remain as long as the weather permits. Allow a free circulation of air at all times when it can be safely done, syringing overhead occasionally, and being very careful to keep down the green fly by frequent fumigations of tobacco; the plants will soon commence to throw up these flowering stems, which must be stopped when about two inches high and kept down to the surface of the pot, by pegging or otherwise.

When frosty weather occurs the plants must be removed to the greenhouse, as near the glass as possible; give occasional waterings with manure water (once a week will be ample), being careful to give a free circulation of air at all favorable times, and paying strict attention to cleanliness, keeping down the green fly by fumigation ; and should mildew make its appearance by a slight dusting of sulphur upon the parts affected. A great drawback to the well being of the cineraria during the winter months is the close proximity to flues and pipes; to obviate, this I place boards covered with one or two inches of sand upon the stage above the flues, upon which the pots are placed; watering the sand occasionally, as the stems continue to grow. Let each be tied out separately to neat clean sticks. Sufficient I think has been said with regard to growing the plants, and if followed up I am sure it will not fail to reward the grower by their extra beauty. Should any readers of the Horticulturist require more information upon this popular flower, I shall be happy to give it, so far as I am able.

Culture #1

I would recommend, in growing Fuchsia for large specimens, to shift them only three times from the four-inch pot, say into six, eight, and eighteen-inch pots. Keep it to its work, and it will do it willingly if supplied with the proper material. It is not altogether to show this method of propagating the Fuchsia, but that a Fuchsia cutting struck in December can be grown to a height of from four to six feet that will produce a thousand , blooms in four to six months,; not a tall, slender object, but a strong, pyramidal-shaped plant. Care must be taken, however, while the plant is young and growing freely, not to let the pot get full of roots, for that would check its growth and throw it into bloom: but it must be shifted, and have a good shift too, for in this particular the Fuchsia is unlike many other plants that only require one size larger pots. For the first two pottings always use light soil, and have the pots well drained, to enable the plant to root freely and grow quickly, for under favorable circumstances it is astonishing to see the rapid growth a Fuchsia will make. After the first or second potting, add loam and well-rotted manure thoroughly mixed. In the summer season they require a good supply of water.

When the plants commence branching out, give them plenty of room and frequent syringing, and never allow them to become dry. In the months of July, August, and September, they should be shaded through the middle of the day to prolong their blooming season.

Culture #2

The most proper season for repotting is from the last of August to the end of September; not later. In dividing the plants, one good strong crown will be quite sufficient. Always pull them asunder; never use a knife. For the larger and well-rooted plants, prepare pots about four inches in diameter, by washing them, unless new ones are to be used; place one inch of broken oyster or clam shells at the bottom, over which place half an inch of moss, to make it more permeable. During the summer months, place the plants upon a bed of coal ashes, plunging them to the rims of the pots, under a wall or fence having a northern aspect, the better to shade them from the mid-day sun. About the middle of October, they should be placed in a good tight frame with a boarded bottom, which will keep them dry, and prevent the ingress of worms to the pots. Elevate the plants to within eight or ten inches of the glass. Let air be given at all favorable opportunities, particularly during damp weather. In watering, always use a spouted pot, to prevent the water settling in the heart of the plants, which would damage if not destroy them. Be careful to keep them well aired whenever the external atmosphere will admit of it; and protect them from severe frosts by a mat or shutter.

About the first week in March, the plants should be top-dressed to the roots with the same kind, of compost as used for potting, and well pressed down. Water must now be given, in proportion as the plants advance in growth. At this time, be careful to guard against frost, and to remove all decayed leaves, weeds, etc. As soon as the flowers begin to open, they may be removed into the greenhouse, conservatory, or any other place where they can receive light and air, and be sheltered from the direct rays of the sun. Never use manure water for this class of plants, as it only tends to produce a luxuriance of foliage injurious to the development of the flowers, and causing, in many instances, the premature decay of the plant.

The following is a list which, in my experience, are among the best in cultivation, and which will not fail to give entire satisfaction to the cultivator of this useful and elegant tribe of plants.

Alexander, (Pearson;) Beauty of England, (Maude;) Cheshire Beauty, (Sanders;) Duke of Northumberland, (Thompson;) Exile, (Cronshaw;) George IV., (Buck;) Highland Mary, (Craigge;) King, (Nicholson;) Kingfisher, (Addis;) Princess Royal, (Collier;) Royal Sovereign, (Gibbons;) Royal George, (Blake).

[The Polyanthus, in its improved forms, is yearly becoming better known in this country, and in time will become as popular as it deserves to be. In some sections they are quite hardy, but the bloom is always better for a little protection. With the above article, Mr. Baker sent us a box of flowers, all of them beautiful; one of them, named the Golden Circle, was especially so. We heartily commend the Polyanthus to all our readers. - Ed].