The months of September, October, and November are usually regarded as the proper season for planting the majority of bulbous-rooted plants: a word or two as to the manner of doing it may therefore not be considered out of place, but be acceptable to those who, for the first time, attempt to grow their own flowers, for whom, indeed, the following remarks are chiefly intended.

Plants of this class form what may be termed the staple of our earliest blossoms. They may be had from December to April in constant succession with perhaps less trouble than would attend the culture of most plants for so long a period at the most inclement part of the year; hence their value and universal adoption.

Like its allies, the hyacinth delights in a rich porous soil; this is easily provided by mixing together one-third coarse sea or river sand, one-third thoroughly decomposed turf, one-fourth rotten cow-dung at least two years old, and the remainder decayed leaves. A compost of this kind I have used for a number of years, and in all cases have found it sufficient to meet the requirements peculiar to the class of plants under consideration. It is a matter of much importance to the grower to be particular in regulating the time of potting to that of the time they are required to be in bloom, for it is next to impossible to expect bulbs to throw up fine flowers, which have only been potted a few days previous to their exposure to the action of light and heat; they can not have provided themselves with the means of living, let alone those required to perfect their floral development. Their utmost endeavors, the greatest efforts of their nature, are therefore altogether abortive; in short, they are rootless, and plants without roots are in a state of nullity as regards development of any kind; but pot them early to allow time for the protrusion of roots, and your efforts will be crowned with success.

With regard to the mode of potting, it is very simple, and may be thus described: In the first place, drain your pots thoroughly by means of broken potsherds placed in the bottom of each pot; then fill the pots to the rim with the compost already referred to, without pressing it down; take the bulb and place it on the surface, pressing it down until its neck is level with the rim of the pot, watering the whole, using a moderately fine rose, to settle the soil round the base of the bulb; then remove them to a cold frame or some sheltered situation, standing the pots close to each other on a thick layer of charcoal dust or boards, to prevent the ingress of worms; cover them entirely over to the depth of a foot or eighteen inches with fresh leaves or saw-dust; but I prefer the former on account of the genial heat which they impart, being highly conducive to a vigorous start: they ought to remain in this posi-tion for at least from four to six weeks, affording the bulbs an opportunity to make plenty of roots. During the time they remain in this position they will require examining two or three times, giving water when required.

After standing for the time mentioned they will have started to grow: select from among them the most forward, and shift them into a larger-sized pot, lleaving the remainder to come in in succession, to be treated similarly. They may now be considered in a fit position to be brought into the greenhouse or parlor. In doing so be careful that the temperature of the house does not exceed 55° or 60° for the first week or ten days, raising it gradually as they advance in growth; for too much excitement at any-time will inevitably spoil the plants.

As the plants advance in growth they must be supplied with water as often as they require it. They will be very much improved, both in vigor and color of flowers, by watering occasionally with liquid manure or guano water. When the flowers are expanded remove them to the coolest place in the parlor or greenhouse, where they will continue in bloom much longer than if left in a high temperature. Hyacinths form a beautiful ornament when grown in glasses. For this purpose colored glasses are preferable to white; because too much light is injurious to the bulb. The bulbs for this purpose should be procured as early as possible, and placed in the glasses, filled up to the neck so as about one-fourth of an inch of the bulb is covered, using soft water, standing them away in a dark closet until their long fleshy roots have nearly reached the bottom of the glass; after which expose them gradually to the lightest position you can afford. As soon as the water becomes fetid and muddy it should be renewed, say twice a week.

In severe weather they must be removed from the window to keep them free from frost.

Those intended for out-door decoration can be planted from the latter end of September to the middle of November; but the sooner the better. As regards the planting, it is done, nine times out of ten, in a manner that would prove fatal to things of far less value. A hole made with a dibble into which the bulb is thrust without any other apparent desire than to place them out of sight, is the sum of attention they receive, in this very important operation, at the hands of some of our patent practitioners; and when the blooming season comes, instead of having a fine bloom of strong thrifty plants, the reverse is experienced. As a matter of course the blame is .thrown upon the quality of the bulbs, which, in nine cases out of ten, do not deserve it. As I have already stated, all bulbous plants should be allowed every facility for the spread of the roots; and the only way to insure this is to stir up the beds or borders to the depth of two feet, mixing in at the same time as much rotten cow-dung and coarse sand as practicable.

This done, remove from the surface about four inches of soil; then place the bulbs on the surface from nine inches to a foot apart, covering the whole with the soil removed, leaving the soil perfectly loose.' In the opposite case - planting with a dibble - the soil is compressed all round, which, if the soil is adhesive, forms a receptacle for water to generate to the utter destruction of the roots.

The only additional attention they will require will be a good thick covering of rough manure to prevent the frost from penetrating too deep.

[Much obliged to you, Mr. Elliott, for your sensible remarks on bulb culture. Mr. E.'s friends know him as a "sound" writer on such subjects, but in this case he has forgotten the size of his pots. It will do to begin with four-inch pots and shift into six-inch size. - Ed].

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