The Camellia is in habit a forest-tree, and the soil most suitable for it is one rich in vegetable matter; still it must neither be too clayey nor sandy. Garden, era differ somewhat regarding the best compost in which to pot Camellias; "many men, many minds," is a true saying in the present case. I have found the following compost very good : 3 parts rich loam; 2 vegetable mould; 2 sand; 2 charcoal. Sometimes animal manures are used; when used they should be well rotted; in fact, all the substances used must be well decayed. A great many take the trouble to sift the soil; it is, however, far better to crumble it with the hands or the spade. Sometimes, when the sand is not very fine, it must of course be sifted. I could not pass by the charcoal without noticing its great benefit and general usefulness. Charcoal, we know, belongs to those manures called absorbents; that is, it has the power of absorbing those gases (acids) which are produced by the different manures supplied to the soil, either in a solid or liquid state, and of retaining them until wanted for the plants; it also, by retaining the acids and absorbing the water, prevents the soil from getting sour.

Allow me here to make the following extract from " Experiments and Observations on the Action of Charcoal from Wood on Vegetation," by Mr. Lukas. In speaking of the action of the soil mixed with charcoal Mr. Lukas says: "An addition of two thirds charcoal, for example, to vegetable mould, appeared to answer excellently for the Gesneria and Gloxinia, and also for the tropical Aroidese with tuberous roots. ... A cactus planted in a mixture of equal parts of charcoal and earth throve progressively, and attained double of its former size in the space of a few* weeks. The use of charcoal was very advantageous with several Bromeliacese and Liliaceaa, with the Citrus, and Begonia also, and even with the Palmae. The same advantage was found in the case of almost all those plants for which sand is used, in order to keep the earth porous; when charcoal was mixed with the soil instead of sand, the vegetation was always rendered stronger and more vigorous." This, I think, will be sufficient proof that it is of great advantage to mix charcoal with the different soils for plants.

We must also remember that in absorbing carbonic acid and ammonia from the atmosphere, it furnishes the plants with one of their principal ingredients.

Shifting the Camellia need not take place often; yet it-is of great importance, and should never be neglected, if it is our wish to be in possession of strong and healthy grown plants. Never allow your plants to get pot-bound; this is connected with evil results; the roots will be so crowded, that it prevents drainage. If, after watering, we turn such a plant out of the pot and make an examination of the ball of earth, what will we find? Simply this, that while the upper part of the ball is saturated with water, the roots at the bottom suffer from drought ! The consequence of such a culture is not only that the plants lose their flower buds; but, if kept in this state for a considerable time, the greater part of the roots will be found dead from want of nourishment. If such an accident takes place, the plant must immediately, after the greater part of the soil has been removed, and all decayed roots cut off, and the branches pruned in proportion, be repotted, then placed in a warmer temperature, and syringed twice a day with lukewarm water, to keep the stem in a moist state. It will be found beneficial to envelop it with moss; this will have a tendency to make it break stronger.

When the young shoots have made the third leaf, the plant should be hardened gradually, and removed to its former place.

Young Camellias may be shifted every two years; older plants, about five feet high, need only to be shifted every three or four years; a great deal depends, of course, upon the healthfulness of the plants. The pots should always correspond with the size of the plants; small plants will want them from 1 to 2 inches wider than those they occupied before; strong and powerful specimens in proportion larger. Camellias prefer pots with more width than depth. A main feature is to secure perfect drainage; to this end, place about two to three inches of broken oyster shells or broken crocks in the bottom; upon this a mixture of fine cut moss and powdered charcoal, into which the young spongioles like to penetrate.

Notwithstanding shifting plants is a very simple operation, it still requires some I judgment; it is often done with a great deal of carelessness. After having removed the plant from the pot which it occupied with the ball entire, cut off all sickly and decayed roots, without breaking the ball of earth, except about one inch of the soil at the surface. Next, after placing a few inches of soil in the pot, place the plant as much as possible in the middle, and fill the space between the sides of the pot and the ball firmly with your compost.

Many will inquire, When is the proper time to shift Camellias? The general rule is, No plant should be shifted just before flowering, or while in bloom. April is about the best time; if the plants have been forced, it will of course bo necessary to do it earlier.

Culture Of The Camellia Japonica #1

The Camellia is generally propagated by single cuttings, which, when two or three years old, are strong enough to be grafted or inarched with double varieties. Grafting or inarching is done in spring, before the plants commence growing. To insure success in growing good plants they should first be trained with a single stem and shortened back so as to make side shoots from the stem. Continue growing by keeping the leading shoot in advance of the others, so as to form a pyramidal shape. As they advance in growth shorten all straggling shoots which get beyond the proper limit. To encourage growth the plants ought to be put in a warm house where there is a little moisture. Old plants which are required to bloom early, should be treated in the same manner and kept in the house until they have set their buds. At all times they require a liberal supply of water, and should be shaded from the sun, as every cultivator well knows that the leaves of Camellias are more or less liable to be blotched and burned with the sun's rays if not protected. Camellias do not require heat after having set their buds, only sufficient to keep them from being injured by severe frost.

It is not advisable at any time to go to extremes, but there are no plants in cultivation which sooner feel the effects of sudden extremes than Camellias advanced in bud. Excessive dry heat at night, or cold rushes of air during the day, will go hard with their constitutions, and cause them to drop their buds like hailstones.

There are, also, other kinds of extremes which are alike injurious to these plants, such as over-watering and under-watering, stoppage of drainage, over-potting and pot bound. The plants which have been over-watered should be turned out of the pot, all the sour soil removed from the ball without injuring the plants, re-potted and put into a close house until they commence growing again at the roots. Plants which have suffered through being under-watered, should be immersed in a pail of water until the roots and ball get a thorough soaking. Plants with the drainage stopped should also be taken out of the pot and re-potted in a well drained pot. Pot bound plants should have the ball reduced, if practicable, and re-potted in a pot a size larger. All plants of Camellias should be potted after blooming, and immediately placed in a warm, moist house to make their growth, and syringed over with water in the evening. When old plants are potted in a good compost, they will not require re-potting for four or five years. Top-dressing or watering them occasionally with weak manure water, will be beneficial if the plants become infected with brown scale and are dirty. Sponge the leaves with soft soap and water.

Thin off the buds when the size of a pea, where they are too numerous. - J. E. Booth, in Farmer's Union.