Christmas Roses

Almost every amateur is interested in the Christmas Rose - the Helleborus niger of botanists. He loves to think of outdoor flowers at mid-winter, there are so few. And he really can get them. The Christmas Rose does not make a mere pretence of winter blooming; it flowers whole-heartedly with enjoyment, with genuine gusto. It is delightful to see the pure white flowers among the dying brown fern fronds at Kew - freshness taking a foil from decay. Experts in Christmas Roses (everything in gardening is specialised in these days, and very nearly every plant has a Society) tell us an interesting fact about the plant, namely, that it forms two sets of roots - the first in September, the second in early spring, when the new leaves begin to push up. The former are the large roots, the latter the fibres. From this we deduce an important cultural fact, namely, that the best time to pot or plant Christmas Roses is September. But I mention them now because I want people to learn about them while they are in bloom, and grow really interested in the different varieties. The form of the common called Major is very good, and by no means must be ignored, as it will flower abundantly for several weeks, but Praecox is worth noting as an early autumn bloomer. Altifolius is a fine variety which flowers in November. Angustifolius and Juvernis bloom in winter. A variety of a distinct and pretty colour is Apple Blossom. In view of the scarcity of winter flowers, I believe that the Christmas Rose will grow in favour as the years pass.

The Japanese Iris

With the Lily bulbs which they send over in enormous quantities at mid-winter, the Japanese send clumps of their wonderful Kaempfer Iris, which has huge, flat flowers as big as the largest Clematises. Botanists call the plant Iris Laevigata, having deposed the old name of Kaempferi. They are rather partial to changing names, and often cause the amateur a good deal of bewilderment, but they mean well. Hardy plantsmen want to get the Japanese Iris called the Clematis-flowered Iris, and the name is apt, but unfortunately it adds another to an already goodly list. One may buy clumps of Japanese Irises at from half-a-crown to five shillings a dozen, according to size. Named varieties are dearer, but, as most of the names are Japanese, very few people can pronounce them or say what they mean. In these circumstances, why worry about names? We want varietal names for Roses and a few other special things, but not for everything in the garden. Besides, these Irises are generally planted at the water-side, often among rushes or other growth; and I can hardly suppose that the greatest stickler for named varieties of plants wants to splash about in mud searching for labels. Buy, then, in mixture, and plant in moist spots now. If you want Irises for dry spots, turn to the German Flag.

Hyacinths In Glasses

I do not think that so many Hyacinths are grown in glasses of water nowadays as were cultivated in years gone by, because bowls of peatmoss fibre have displaced them, but still there are some. Will the grower give a little attention to glass Hyacinths now? If they are in a dark place, bring them to the light. If the water is foul, pour it off very carefully and refill, preferably with lukewarm water. One of the troubles with glass Hyacinths is that as the flower heads expand the plant gets top-heavy, and, if not supported, falls overboard. Then there is a to-do. The florist sells wire supports suitable for supporting the plants, and one should be procured for each plant. The lower part will clasp the neck of the bottle, the upper will hold the truss. Hyacinths in pots will also want stakes, but these may be ordinary wooden ones.