Shellacing of turned pieces may be done with either a brush, or with a polishing pad or a cloth. When the brush is used, the principles involved are the same as those in using the brush on hand-work. One or more coats may be applied, rubbing each with sandpaper or pumice stone.

In applying the shellac with a brush the piece must not be revolved at full speed of the lathe, but simply turned by taking hold of the belt with the hand and pulling, while the brush is held against the work with the other hand, as shown in Fig. 65.

Fig. 65. Shellacing.

In sandpapering the coats of finish, much care must be taken to avoid rubbing entirely through the finish. This is especially liable to occur at the top of beads and at corners. The principle is really the same as in sandpapering hand-work, the apparent difference being caused by the speed of the lathe. Often you will have better success if you change the belt to a much slower speed.

There is also a tendency to burn the work, because of the heat resulting from the friction of the paper with the surface revolving so rapidly. The burning of the wood is not so apt to occur, if the finish is ground down with pumice stone and oil. Grinding the finish in this manner is not a very difficult task. Use a cloth or a bit of waste for a grinding pad. Place on the pad a small amount of oil and pumice stone. Ordinary machine oil may be used, but regular rubbing oil is better. Examine your work often, lest you grind off too much of the finish. Use plenty of oil and plenty of pumice stone, for, unless the pad is kept moist and well supplied with pumice stone, it also will burn the work. It should be moved about, similar to sandpaper.