Tool handles may be made from pieces which are too small for regular exercises, or out of pieces which have been accepted as exercises and then discarded.

Usually the piece is turned with the roughing gouge to the general outline, as shown in Fig. 130. With the point of the skew chisel (Fig. 39) the length of the space for the ferrule is marked. The end is then turned to a size that will allow of the ferrule being driven to place.

Turn the conical part, which is next to the ferrule, using the roughing gouge and the skew chisel. With the turning gouge (Fig.47) turn the small curve. Work the main part of the handle to size with the roughing gouge (Fig. 13). Finish the handle to the shape shown in Fig. 131, using the skew chisel the same as in finishing the body of Fig. 89.

After the handle has been sandpapered and polished, as shown in Fig. 131, carefully cut the stub end off with the skew chisel while the piece is in the lathe. Do this so that there will be no roughness on the end of

Fig. 129. Tool Handle.

Fig. 130. Tool Handle Roughed.

Fig. 131. Tool Handle Sandpapered.

the handle. There should be no stub end at the dead-center bearing.

Another method of making a handle is to work several places to near the finished size, as indicated by Fig. 132. The measurement should be made as given in drawing, Fig.133. The parting tool is used for the cutting or scraping, and the calipers are used for measuring the diameters. The piece is then worked to size by carefully cutting with the roughing gouge to the bottom of the grooves made by the parting

Fig. 132. Tool Handle Sized.

Fig. 133. Tool Handle.

tool. The handle is then finished in the same manner as first described.

Fig. 129 illustrates an ordinary file handle. Handles are made of all sorts of shapes and sizes, and of many kinds of wood. The cheaper grades of file handles are of soft wood. Chisel handles should always be made of hard wood. Apple wood is often used for firmer chisel handles. Socket chisel handles for heavy work are often made from hickory. Sometimes they are fitted with an iron ferrule at the top end, similar to the ring on the mallet (Fig. 150).

Handles which are to be struck with a mallet may be flat at the top end, and have two or three thick-nesses of leather glued or nailed to the end, so as to hinder the mallet from splitting the handle. Fig. 134 shows a handle of this kind for a tanged firmer chisel. Handles for socket chisels may also have leather tops.

Fig. 135 illustrates a handle of fancy pattern for a socket chisel. These handles are not to be struck with a mallet.

Fig. 134. Leather Topped Handle.

Fig. 135. Socket Chisel Handle.