The hat rest, shown in Fig. 204, may be made by turning the base on a face-plate, the same as the base of the candlestick, Fig. 195.

The top should be turned on an arbor, similar to the napkin ring, Fig.

174. The stem may be turned on the centers the same as the first exercises or the candlestick stem

(Figs. 196 and 197), and the ends fitted to the holes in the base and top.

After each part is completed, all should be glued together. If the hat rest is to be made in this manner, there may be beads or some similar curves at the joints so that any variations will not be noticeable, as in the candlestick, Fig. 194.

Fig. 204. Hat Rest.

Fig. 205. Hat Rest.

Another method, and one which may be used for such designs as Fig. 205, is to rough out all the parts and fit them together. The piece for.the top should be roughed to shape on an arbor. In squaring down the end, the skew chisel may be held as shown in Fig. 206.

To finish the surface, the skew chisel should be held as in Fig. 207, and a very light cut should be taken.

Regular scraping tools, if they are at hand, should be used for facing these pieces.

The stem should be roughed to the shape shown in Fig. 208.

The ends should be carefully formed. The surface which forms the joints must be very well turned, or the joint will show badly after the parts are polished. The base should be secured to a face-plate, the

Fig. 206. Jointing Side of Blank.

Fig. 207. Jointing Side of Blank.

Fig. 208. Stem for Hat Rest.

same as the base in Fig. 195 or Fig. 258. The edge must first be turned, using the gouge as in Fig. 125 or 126. No attempt should be made to scrape these surfaces, for the gouge will again be used on them, after the parts have been glued together.

The face of the base should be turned with the roughing gouge, as in Fig. 271, and then a hole bored for the pin which is to extend entirely through the piece.

You may find it of advantage to use longer screws in fastening the blank to the face-plate, so that you can block it away from the face-plate by placing strips about 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch thick between the base block and the iron.

After the hole has been finished, turn the base to the form shown in Fig. 209.

Glue the three pieces together, clamping them with strong clamps, as shown in Fig. 210. In making such joints in pieces to be turned, the end grain and the side grain should be thoroughly sized with glue before gluing together, so that in

Fig. 209. Base

Roughed Out.

Fig. 210. Parts Clamped.

turning the grain will not be torn or broken at the joint. If the sizing is properly done, the joint can be turned after drying as perfectly as if it were one piece.

You must plan to preserve the centers on the stem, so that they can be used after gluing. The spur center will not hold so strongly as the screws in the face-plate, therefore you must be very careful in turning the base and top after the parts have been glued. The first thing to do after the parts have been joined, is to go over the entire pattern, turning each part to nearly the finished size. Fig. 211 shows the piece nearly to size, and also shows how the chisel is held to scrape the face of a curve.

To form the long curve, work carefully from each end. The top and bottom parts should be nearly finished before turning the stem. Fig. 205 shows the finished hat rest.

Fig. 211. Hat Rest Outlined.