The illuminant for this library lamp may be either kerosene or electricity. If the former is used, procure from a dealer in manual training supplies a suitable oil pot and burner, which are made for just this class of lamps. The pot is usually of copper and has a supporting flange around the top, so that it is only necessary to cut a large circular opening in the top of the standard and set in the pot. The burners are of the center-draft type and are of high candlepower. Of course, almost any good burner may be soldered to a tin can and arranged to give good service. If electricity is to be used, one high power lamp set directly on the top of the standard will answer. The cord may then be carried downward and out to one side under the base. Quite the most difficult feature will be the construction of the shade- The dimensions of one of the four sections are given in the accompanying sketch. Accurately lay out the pattern on a sheet of paper and transfer it to each of the four pieces, which may be of several materials. If wood is used, the cross grain at the top and bottom must be reenforced with strips glued on the inside. Considerable care will be necessary in fitting the corner seams and in sawing out the pattern.

In making trunks, thin boards are used which are composed of three or more thicknesses of veneer. This material is very strong, does not warp, and will stand all manner of scroll sawing. Another material available is what is known as Beaver Board, which is a wood product about three-sixteenths of an inch thick and is used instead of lath and plaster in building. The choice of the material will largely depend on what is most available, and in all cases reenforcing corner strips and strips along the lower edges on the inside will be found desirable. Where the corner seams are not well fitted, a carefully applied strip of passe-partout tape will hide the defects. All edges are to be sandpapered smooth before and after painting or staining. Glass is by no means necessary for a lining, as colored papers and many fabrics answer every purpose.

Those who do not care to make the shade have three alternatives open to them. A shade may be purchased and the four supporting brackets made to fit, or one may be made of silk on a wire frame. The third plan is to secure the regular electric fixture used on lamps of this sort, which consists of a short brass standard with two sockets attached and a screw cap on top to hold the shade. In this case it is only necessary to screw the standard to the top of the woodwork, the brackets being unnecessary.

The woodwork should start with the base, which should be tenoned up squarely, beveled off on top, and then built out at the four corners on the under side with small blocks- The second block should now be placed on this, and then another one of about a half inch in thickness, so that a firmer connection may be made with the four side boards of the standard, which pieces are now in order. Trim these up to size and fit them together with bevel edges. Draw out the pattern and then transfer it to each piece. Saw out with the scroll saw and finish the edges. Set up the entire standard with glue and a very few wire brads.

The block for the top is now in order, and after sawing the large circular opening for the oil pot, secure it in place. The four brackets that support the shade are now to be made and fitted and drilled for the screws. The staining and filling should now be done, and after each coat has dried, sandpaper lightly. Finish with wax. Place brackets, oil pot, burner and shade.